1.Zerborstener Turm Guide

  • Grades: SX

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome

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Table of contents

1. 1.Zerborstener Turm 21 routes in Cliff

All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 14.232211, 50.911828

Access Issues

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at .

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz


You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IV Trad
2 Blockkante VIIa Trad
3 Direkter Vergessener Weg VIIa Trad
4 Geringes Risiko VI Trad
5 Go West (RP)

red point

VIIIb Trad
6 Hängebauch VIIIc Trad
7 Nordkamin II Trad
8 Nordostweg V Trad
9 Nordweg VI Trad
10 Nordwestwand VI Trad
11 Pfeilerweg VIIa Trad
12 Schartenweg III Trad
13 Südwand VI Trad
14 Südwand (oU)

without support

VIIIc Trad
15 Variante zum Nordweg VI Trad
16 Variante zum Westkamin II Trad
17 Variante zur Blockkante VIIb Trad
18 Vergessener Weg VI Trad
19 Vergessener Weg (oU)

without support

VIIa Trad
20 Westgrat III Trad
21 Westkamin III Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Nordkamin Trad
Variante zum Westkamin Trad
III Schartenweg Trad
Westgrat Trad
Westkamin Trad
IV Alter Weg Trad
V Nordostweg Trad
VI Geringes Risiko Trad
Nordweg Trad
Nordwestwand Trad
Südwand Trad
Variante zum Nordweg Trad
Vergessener Weg Trad
VIIa Blockkante Trad
Direkter Vergessener Weg Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
Vergessener Weg (oU) Trad
VIIb Variante zur Blockkante Trad
VIIIb Go West (RP) Trad
VIIIc Hängebauch Trad
Südwand (oU) Trad