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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} V Alter Nordweg Trad
2
{SX} VIIa Bürgervariante Trad
3
{SX} Xc Collage Trad
4
{SX} VIIIa direkte Südwand Trad
5
{SX} VIIIa Direkter Edelweißweg Trad
6
{SX} VIIb Edelweißweg Trad
7
{SX} VI Fehrmannweg Trad
8
{SX} VIIIc Gedenkweg 92 Trad
9
{SX} VI Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
10
{SX} IXc Graue Haare Trad
11
{SX} VIIb Irrtumsvariante Trad
13
{SX} VIIIc Kleine Korrektur Trad
15
{SX} IXa Kompakte Wand Trad
16
{SX} VIIIb Komplette Südwand Trad
17
{SX} IXa Kontrastprogramm Trad
18
{SX} V Kühnsche Variante Trad
19
{SX} VIIc Lange Westwand Trad
20
{SX} IXa Nadelkissen Trad
21
{SX} VIIc Nordvariante Trad
22
{SX} VIIIa Nordwand Trad
23
{SX} Xb Nordwandmitte Trad
24
{SX} VIIIa Oh Lady Trad
25
{SX} VIIIb Ostpfeiler Trad
26
{SX} VIIb Ostwand Trad
27
{SX} VIIc Rechte Nordwand Trad
28
{SX} VIIIa Rechte Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

30
{SX} VIIIb Schartenwand Trad
31
{SX} VIIIa Schöneweg Trad
32
{SX} VIIb Südwand Trad
33
34
{SX} VIIIb Variante zum Ostpfeiler Trad
35
{SX} VIIIa Variante zum Schöneweg Trad
36
{SX} VIIc Variante zur Ostwand Trad
37
{SX} IXa Verlängerung Trad
38
{SX} VIIIa Walpertrisse Trad
39
{SX} V Wenzelweg Trad
40
{SX} VIIc Westkante Trad
41
{SX} VIIc Westwand Trad
42
{SX} IXa Zentrale Nordwand Trad
43
{SX} VIIIb Zentrale Ostwand Trad
44
{SX} IXa Zonierungsstorno (RP) Trad

red point