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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX V Alter Nordweg Trad
2
SX VIIa Bürgervariante Trad
3
SX Xc Collage Trad
4
SX VIIIa direkte Südwand Trad
5
SX VIIIa Direkter Edelweißweg Trad
6
SX VIIb Edelweißweg Trad
7
SX VI Fehrmannweg Trad
8
SX VIIIc Gedenkweg 92 Trad
9
SX VI Gipfelstürmerweg Trad
10
SX IXc Graue Haare Trad
11
SX VIIb Irrtumsvariante Trad
13
SX VIIIc Kleine Korrektur Trad
15
SX IXa Kompakte Wand Trad
16
SX VIIIb Komplette Südwand Trad
17
SX IXa Kontrastprogramm Trad
19
SX VIIc Lange Westwand Trad
20
SX IXa Nadelkissen Trad
21
SX VIIc Nordvariante Trad
22
SX VIIIa Nordwand Trad
23
SX Xb Nordwandmitte Trad
24
SX VIIIa Oh Lady Trad
25
SX VIIIb Ostpfeiler Trad
26
SX VIIb Ostwand Trad
27
SX VIIc Rechte Nordwand Trad
28
SX VIIIa Rechte Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

30
SX VIIIb Schartenwand Trad
31
SX VIIIa Schöneweg Trad
32
SX VIIb Südwand Trad
34
35
36
SX VIIc Variante zur Ostwand Trad
37
SX IXa Verlängerung Trad
38
SX VIIIa Walpertrisse Trad
39
SX V Wenzelweg Trad
40
SX VIIc Westkante Trad
41
SX VIIc Westwand Trad
42
SX IXa Zentrale Nordwand Trad
43
SX VIIIb Zentrale Ostwand Trad
44

red point