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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIc ABS Trad
2
{SX} III Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VIIa Ameisenriß Trad
4
{SX} VIIa Ameisenweg Trad
5
{SX} VIIIb Bauerlochwand Trad
6
{SX} VIIIb Direkter Nordriss Trad
7
{SX} Xa Etappenrennen Trad
8
{SX} IXb Etappensieger (RP) Trad

red point

9
{SX} VIIIb EV zum Nordriß Trad
10
{SX} IXc Feuersalamander Trad
11
{SX} IXc Fundament Trad
12
{SX} VIIIc Große Variante Trad
13
{SX} VIIIa Hatori Hanzo Trad
14
{SX} Xc Hexenhammer Trad
15
{SX} Xc Idiotenanode (RP) Trad

red point

16
{SX} VIIa Kalte Verschneidung Trad
17
{SX} Xb Kompromiß Trad
18
{SX} VIIa Kreuz und quer Trad
19
{SX} VI Kreuzweg Trad
20
{SX} VIIc Langer Ameisenriß Trad
21
{SX} VIIc Langer Ameisenweg Trad
22
{SX} VIIIb Mahnbescheid (RP) Trad

red point

23
{SX} IXc Mit Feuereifer Trad
24
{SX} VIIb Neuer Talweg Trad
25
{SX} VIIc Nordostkante Trad
26
{SX} VIIIa Nordriß Trad
27
{SX} V Nordweg Trad
28
{SX} VIIc Probierstube Trad
29
{SX} VI Querweg Trad
30
{SX} VIIIc Rippenprellung Trad
31
{SX} VIIIc Roberts Rippe Trad
32
{SX} VIIIc Saxen flaxen (RP) Trad

red point

33
{SX} VIIa Schartenpfeiler Trad
34
{SX} VIIa Später Weg Trad
35
{SX} IV Südostkamin Trad
36
{SX} VIIb Südostwand Trad
37
{SX} V Südostweg Trad
38
{SX} V Südwestriß Trad
39
{SX} VIIa Talweg Trad
40
{SX} IXc Ultimatum Trad
41
42
{SX} VIIa Variante zum Nordweg Trad
43
{SX} Xb Verdrehte Welt Trad
44

red point

45
{SX} IXc Vollstreckung Trad