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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 ABS
VIIc
Trad
2 Alter Weg
III
Trad
3 Ameisenriß
VIIa
Trad
4 Ameisenweg
VIIa
Trad
5 Bauerlochwand
VIIIb
Trad
6 Direkter Nordriss
VIIIb
Trad
7 Etappenrennen
Xa
Trad
8 Etappensieger (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
9 EV zum Nordriß
VIIIb
Trad
10 Feuersalamander
IXc
Trad
11 Fundament
IXc
Trad
12 Große Variante
VIIIc
Trad
13 Hatori Hanzo
VIIIa
Trad
14 Hexenhammer
Xc
Trad
15 Idiotenanode (RP)

red point

Xc
Trad
16 Kalte Verschneidung
VIIa
Trad
17 Kompromiß
Xb
Trad
18 Kreuz und quer
VIIa
Trad
19 Kreuzweg
VI
Trad
20 Langer Ameisenriß
VIIc
Trad
21 Langer Ameisenweg
VIIc
Trad
22 Mahnbescheid (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
23 Mit Feuereifer
IXc
Trad
24 Neuer Talweg
VIIb
Trad
25 Nordostkante
VIIc
Trad
26 Nordriß
VIIIa
Trad
27 Nordweg
V
Trad
28 Probierstube
VIIc
Trad
29 Querweg
VI
Trad
30 Rippenprellung
VIIIc
Trad
31 Roberts Rippe
VIIIc
Trad
32 Saxen flaxen (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
33 Schartenpfeiler
VIIa
Trad
34 Später Weg
VIIa
Trad
35 Südostkamin
IV
Trad
36 Südostwand
VIIb
Trad
37 Südostweg
V
Trad
38 Südwestriß
V
Trad
39 Talweg
VIIa
Trad
40 Ultimatum
IXc
Trad
41 Variante zu Roberts Rippe
VIIIc
Trad
42 Variante zum Nordweg
VIIa
Trad
43 Verdrehte Welt
Xb
Trad
44 Vollständiges Fundament (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
45 Vollstreckung
IXc
Trad