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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIc ABS Trad
2
SX III Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIa Ameisenriß Trad
4
SX VIIa Ameisenweg Trad
5
SX VIIIb Bauerlochwand Trad
6
SX VIIIb Direkter Nordriss Trad
7
SX Xa Etappenrennen Trad
8
SX IXb Etappensieger (RP) Trad

red point

9
SX VIIIb EV zum Nordriß Trad
10
SX IXc Feuersalamander Trad
11
SX IXc Fundament Trad
12
SX VIIIc Große Variante Trad
13
SX VIIIa Hatori Hanzo Trad
14
SX Xc Hexenhammer Trad
15
SX Xc Idiotenanode (RP) Trad

red point

16
SX VIIa Kalte Verschneidung Trad
17
SX Xb Kompromiß Trad
18
SX VIIa Kreuz und quer Trad
19
SX VI Kreuzweg Trad
20
SX VIIc Langer Ameisenriß Trad
21
SX VIIc Langer Ameisenweg Trad
22
SX VIIIb Mahnbescheid (RP) Trad

red point

23
SX IXc Mit Feuereifer Trad
24
SX VIIb Neuer Talweg Trad
25
SX VIIc Nordostkante Trad
26
SX VIIIa Nordriß Trad
27
SX V Nordweg Trad
28
SX VIIc Probierstube Trad
29
SX VI Querweg Trad
30
SX VIIIc Rippenprellung Trad
31
SX VIIIc Roberts Rippe Trad
32
SX VIIIc Saxen flaxen (RP) Trad

red point

33
SX VIIa Schartenpfeiler Trad
34
SX VIIa Später Weg Trad
35
SX IV Südostkamin Trad
36
SX VIIb Südostwand Trad
37
SX V Südostweg Trad
38
SX V Südwestriß Trad
39
SX VIIa Talweg Trad
40
SX IXc Ultimatum Trad
42
SX VIIa Variante zum Nordweg Trad
43
SX Xb Verdrehte Welt Trad
44

red point

45
SX IXc Vollstreckung Trad