Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} IXb Abwechslung Trad
2
{SX} VIIc Affenschaukel Trad
3
{SX} VIIa AKV-Weg Trad
4
{SX} III Alter Weg Trad
5
{SX} VIIIc Bierdurst Trad
6
{SX} IXa Blindschleiche Trad
7
{SX} VIIa Bröckelweg Trad
8
{SX} VIIb Bröckelweg (oU) Trad

without support

9
{SX} III Byzantinerweg Trad
10
{SX} IXb Diagonale Trad
11
{SX} VIIIc Diffus (RP) Trad

red point

12
{SX} VIIIc Direkter Karfreitag (RP) Trad

red point

13
{SX} VIIIa Direkter Ostriß Trad
14
{SX} V Edelweißweg Trad
15
{SX} VIIb Excelsiorweg Trad
16
{SX} V Fehrmannweg Trad
17
{SX} IXb Finale Trad
18
{SX} VI Fischerweg Trad
19
{SX} VIIb Fliegelweg Trad
20
{SX} VIIIc Flotter Dreier Trad
21
{SX} IXc Freiflug Trad
22
{SX} IXb Freischwimmerzeugnis Trad
23
{SX} VIIIc Freudiges Ereignis Trad
24
{SX} IXb Ganz gerader Weg Trad
25
{SX} VIIIb Gerader Weg Trad
26
{SX} III Gerbingweg Trad
27
{SX} II Grottenweg Trad
28
{SX} IXc Hauswand Trad
29
{SX} Xb Heiliger Krieg Trad
30
{SX} XIb Herr der Ringe (RP) Trad

red point

31
{SX} VIIa Himmelsleiter Trad
32
{SX} IXc Hinterm Mond Trad
33
{SX} VIIc Höllenleiter Trad
34
{SX} Xa Hypnose Trad
35
{SX} VIIc Idas Riß Trad
36
{SX} IXb Im alten Stil Trad
37
{SX} IV Kanzelweg Trad
38
{SX} VIIIb Karfreitag Trad
39
{SX} VIIIc Karsamstag (RP) Trad

red point

40
{SX} Xa Katalysator Trad
41
{SX} VIIb Kleine Hangelei Trad
42
{SX} VI Klemmweg Trad
43
{SX} IXa Klotzriß Trad
44
{SX} Xa Knock out Trad
45
{SX} IXa Königshangel Trad
46
{SX} VI Kreuzweg Trad
47
{SX} IXb Memento mori ! Trad
48
{SX} Xa Mond Trad
49
{SX} Xb Moralisches Hoch Trad
50
{SX} IXc Murmelspiel Trad
51
{SX} VIIa Neuer Pfeilerweg Trad
52
{SX} VIIb Neuer Pfeilerweg direkt Trad
53
{SX} VIIc Neuer Weg Trad
54
{SX} VIIc Nordriss Trad
56
{SX} IXb Optimum Trad
57
{SX} VIIIb Ostkante Trad
58
{SX} VIIc Ostriß Trad
59
{SX} IXa Ostwand Trad
60
{SX} IV Ostweg Trad
61
{SX} VIIIa Pfeilerkante Trad
62
{SX} VI Pfeilerweg Trad
63
{SX} VIIc Querweg Trad
64
{SX} IXa Regenbogen (RP) Trad

red point

65
{SX} VIIIc Rübezahlstiege Trad
66
{SX} VIIIa Sachsendreier Trad
67
{SX} IXc Schlangenlinie Trad
68
{SX} V Schöne Variante Trad
70
{SX} V Seibtweg Trad
71
{SX} VIIb Serpentine Trad
72
{SX} V Siekmannweg Trad
74
{SX} VIIIb Sonnenwendweg Trad
75
{SX} VIIa Steinzeit Trad
76
{SX} IXc Stilbruch (RP) Trad

red point

77
{SX} XIa Stiller Trad
78
{SX} VIIIc Sturm und Drang Trad
79
{SX} VIIc Südostwand Trad
80
{SX} VIIIa Südostwand (oU) Trad

without support

81
{SX} VIIIc Tod und Illusion Trad
82
{SX} VIIIa Unterm Dach Trad
83
{SX} IXa Urknall Trad
84
{SX} IXc Utopische Armspanne Trad
85
86
87
{SX} VIIIc Variante zum Neuen Weg Trad
88
{SX} VIIIa Variante zum Querweg Trad
89
{SX} VIIIa Variante zur Westkante Trad
91
{SX} IXb Vergessene Sprosse Trad
92
{SX} VIIIa Westkante Trad
93
{SX} VIIIb Westkante (oU) Trad

without support

94
{SX} VI Wettersteiner Weg Trad
95
{SX} VIIb Wettersteinerweg direkt Trad
96
{SX} VIIc Wiessnerriß Trad
97
{SX} VIIa Winkelweg Trad
98
{SX} IXa Westwand Trad