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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX IXb Abwechslung Trad
2
SX VIIc Affenschaukel Trad
3
SX VIIa AKV-Weg Trad
4
SX III Alter Weg Trad
5
SX VIIIc Bierdurst Trad
6
SX IXa Blindschleiche Trad
7
SX VIIa Bröckelweg Trad
8
SX VIIb Bröckelweg (oU) Trad

without support

9
SX III Byzantinerweg Trad
10
SX IXb Diagonale Trad
11
SX VIIIc Diffus (RP) Trad

red point

12

red point

13
SX VIIIa Direkter Ostriß Trad
14
SX V Edelweißweg Trad
15
SX VIIb Excelsiorweg Trad
16
SX V Fehrmannweg Trad
17
SX IXb Finale Trad
18
SX VI Fischerweg Trad
19
SX VIIb Fliegelweg Trad
20
SX VIIIc Flotter Dreier Trad
21
SX IXc Freiflug Trad
22
23
SX VIIIc Freudiges Ereignis Trad
24
SX IXb Ganz gerader Weg Trad
25
SX VIIIb Gerader Weg Trad
26
SX III Gerbingweg Trad
27
SX II Grottenweg Trad
28
SX IXc Hauswand Trad
29
SX Xb Heiliger Krieg Trad
30

red point

31
SX VIIa Himmelsleiter Trad
32
SX IXc Hinterm Mond Trad
33
SX VIIc Höllenleiter Trad
34
SX Xa Hypnose Trad
35
SX VIIc Idas Riß Trad
36
SX IXb Im alten Stil Trad
37
SX IV Kanzelweg Trad
38
SX VIIIb Karfreitag Trad
39
SX VIIIc Karsamstag (RP) Trad

red point

40
SX Xa Katalysator Trad
41
SX VIIb Kleine Hangelei Trad
42
SX VI Klemmweg Trad
43
SX IXa Klotzriß Trad
44
SX Xa Knock out Trad
45
SX IXa Königshangel Trad
46
SX VI Kreuzweg Trad
47
SX IXb Memento mori ! Trad
48
SX Xa Mond Trad
49
SX Xb Moralisches Hoch Trad
50
SX IXc Murmelspiel Trad
51
SX VIIa Neuer Pfeilerweg Trad
53
SX VIIc Neuer Weg Trad
54
SX VIIc Nordriss Trad
56
SX IXb Optimum Trad
57
SX VIIIb Ostkante Trad
58
SX VIIc Ostriß Trad
59
SX IXa Ostwand Trad
60
SX IV Ostweg Trad
61
SX VIIIa Pfeilerkante Trad
62
SX VI Pfeilerweg Trad
63
SX VIIc Querweg Trad
64
SX IXa Regenbogen (RP) Trad

red point

65
SX VIIIc Rübezahlstiege Trad
66
SX VIIIa Sachsendreier Trad
67
SX IXc Schlangenlinie Trad
68
70
SX V Seibtweg Trad
71
SX VIIb Serpentine Trad
72
SX V Siekmannweg Trad
74
SX VIIIb Sonnenwendweg Trad
75
SX VIIa Steinzeit Trad
76
SX IXc Stilbruch (RP) Trad

red point

77
SX XIa Stiller Trad
78
SX VIIIc Sturm und Drang Trad
79
SX VIIc Südostwand Trad
80
SX VIIIa Südostwand (oU) Trad

without support

81
SX VIIIc Tod und Illusion Trad
82
SX VIIIa Unterm Dach Trad
83
SX IXa Urknall Trad
84
87
88
SX VIIIa Variante zum Querweg Trad
89
91
SX IXb Vergessene Sprosse Trad
92
SX VIIIa Westkante Trad
93
SX VIIIb Westkante (oU) Trad

without support

94
SX VI Wettersteiner Weg Trad
96
SX VIIc Wiessnerriß Trad
97
SX VIIa Winkelweg Trad
98
SX IXa Westwand Trad