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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
IXb Abwechslung Trad
2
VIIc Affenschaukel Trad
3
VIIa AKV-Weg Trad
4
III Alter Weg Trad
5
VIIIc Bierdurst Trad
6
IXa Blindschleiche Trad
7
VIIa Bröckelweg Trad
8

without support

9
III Byzantinerweg Trad
10
IXb Diagonale Trad
11
VIIIc Diffus (RP) Trad

red point

12

red point

13
VIIIa Direkter Ostriß Trad
14
15
VIIb Excelsiorweg Trad
16
V Fehrmannweg Trad
17
IXb Finale Trad
18
VI Fischerweg Trad
19
VIIb Fliegelweg Trad
20
VIIIc Flotter Dreier Trad
21
IXc Freiflug Trad
23
24
25
VIIIb Gerader Weg Trad
26
III Gerbingweg Trad
27
II Grottenweg Trad
28
IXc Hauswand Trad
29
30

red point

31
VIIa Himmelsleiter Trad
32
IXc Hinterm Mond Trad
33
VIIc Höllenleiter Trad
34
Xa Hypnose Trad
35
VIIc Idas Riß Trad
36
IXb Im alten Stil Trad
37
IV Kanzelweg Trad
38
VIIIb Karfreitag Trad
39
VIIIc Karsamstag (RP) Trad

red point

40
Xa Katalysator Trad
41
VIIb Kleine Hangelei Trad
42
VI Klemmweg Trad
43
IXa Klotzriß Trad
44
Xa Knock out Trad
45
IXa Königshangel Trad
46
VI Kreuzweg Trad
47
IXb Memento mori ! Trad
48
Xa Mond Trad
50
IXc Murmelspiel Trad
51
53
VIIc Neuer Weg Trad
54
VIIc Nordriss Trad
56
IXb Optimum Trad
57
VIIIb Ostkante Trad
58
VIIc Ostriß Trad
59
IXa Ostwand Trad
60
IV Ostweg Trad
61
VIIIa Pfeilerkante Trad
62
VI Pfeilerweg Trad
63
VIIc Querweg Trad
64

red point

65
VIIIc Rübezahlstiege Trad
66
VIIIa Sachsendreier Trad
67
IXc Schlangenlinie Trad
70
V Seibtweg Trad
71
VIIb Serpentine Trad
72
V Siekmannweg Trad
74
VIIIb Sonnenwendweg Trad
75
VIIa Steinzeit Trad
76
IXc Stilbruch (RP) Trad

red point

77
XIa Stiller Trad
78
VIIIc Sturm und Drang Trad
79
VIIc Südostwand Trad
80
VIIIa Südostwand (oU) Trad

without support

81
VIIIc Tod und Illusion Trad
82
VIIIa Unterm Dach Trad
83
IXa Urknall Trad
92
VIIIa Westkante Trad
93
VIIIb Westkante (oU) Trad

without support

96
VIIc Wiessnerriß Trad
97
VIIa Winkelweg Trad
98
IXa Westwand Trad

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