A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Kreuzturm 24 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.236112, 50.919780

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg VTrad
2 Auseinandersetzung IXbTrad
3 Direktes Grand Ouvert XaTrad
4 EV zur Nordwand VIIbTrad
5 EV zur Nordwand (oU)

without support

6 Germanischer Ausstieg IXbTrad
7 Grand Ouvert XaTrad
8 Graue Spur IXaTrad
9 Komplette Südwand IXcTrad
10 Kreuzbube XaTrad
11 Lochstreifen (RP)

red point

12 Nordkante VIIIbTrad
13 Nordpfeiler IXcTrad
14 Nordwand VIIbTrad
15 Ostriß VIIcTrad
16 Ostwand VIIIbTrad
17 Schwarzer Terror IXbTrad
18 Südriß VIIcTrad
19 Südwand IXbTrad
20 Variante zum Alten Weg VTrad
21 Variante zum AW VTrad
22 Variante zur Nordwand VIIcTrad
23 Vollständige Ostwand VIIIbTrad
24 Westkante VIIIcTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
V Alter Weg Trad
Variante zum AW Trad
Variante zum Alten Weg Trad
VIIb EV zur Nordwand Trad
Nordwand Trad
VIIc EV zur Nordwand (oU) Trad
Ostriß Trad
Südriß Trad
Variante zur Nordwand Trad
VIIIb Nordkante Trad
Ostwand Trad
Vollständige Ostwand Trad
VIIIc Westkante Trad
IXa Graue Spur Trad
IXb Auseinandersetzung Trad
Germanischer Ausstieg Trad
Lochstreifen (RP) Trad
Schwarzer Terror Trad
Südwand Trad
IXc Komplette Südwand Trad
Nordpfeiler Trad
Xa Direktes Grand Ouvert Trad
Grand Ouvert Trad
Kreuzbube Trad