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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX I Alter Weg Trad
2
SX VIIIb Ausstiegsereignis Trad
3
SX VIIa Bergfahrt Trad
4
SX III Birkenkamin Trad
5
SX VIIIc Bon Appetite (RP) Trad

red point

6
SX IXb Boykott Trad
7
SX VIIIa Bunter Kessel Trad
8
SX IXa Copa Trad
9
SX IV Dachweg Trad
10
SX VIIIb Delikatesse (RP) Trad

red point

11
SX VIIc Diolomitenweg Trad
12
SX VIIIb Direkte Ostertour Trad
13
SX VIIIc Direkte Südwestwand Trad
15
SX IXa Ein Tag am Meer Trad
16
SX VIIIa Einstieg übers Dach Trad
17
SX VIIIa EV zur Nordwand Trad
18
SX VIIIb Freudiges Ereignis Trad
19
SX IXa Gewitterstimmung Trad
20
SX IXc Kleinfranken (RP) Trad

red point

21
SX VI Kluftweg Trad
22
SX VI Kombination Trad
23
SX III Lochweg Trad
24
SX VIIc Luftige Variante Trad
25
SX VIIIb Mit Reib und Seele Trad
26
SX VIIIa Nordwand Trad
27
SX IV Nordweg Trad
28
SX VIIc Ostertour Trad
29
SX VIIa Osterweg Trad
30
SX VIIIb Perlenkette (RP) Trad

red point

31
SX IXb Platzreife Trad
32
SX IXa Quicky Trad
33
SX III Reibung Trad
34
SX VIIIc Sechs-Ringe-Menü Trad
35
SX VIIb Südwestseite Trad
36
SX VIIIb Südwestwand Trad
37
SX VIIa Talkesselweg Trad
38
SX VI Traversierung Trad
39
SX VIIIb Überm schwarzen Loch Trad
40
SX VIIIb Variante Nr. 3 Trad
45
SX VIIIa Von Ring zu Ring Trad
46
SX VIIIa Westflanke (RP) Trad

red point

47
SX IXa Westkante (RP) Trad

red point

48
SX 2 Zufallssprung Trad