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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} VIIIb Ausstiegsereignis Trad
3
{SX} VIIa Bergfahrt Trad
4
{SX} III Birkenkamin Trad
5
{SX} VIIIc Bon Appetite (RP) Trad

red point

6
{SX} IXb Boykott Trad
7
{SX} VIIIa Bunter Kessel Trad
8
{SX} IXa Copa Trad
9
{SX} IV Dachweg Trad
10
{SX} VIIIb Delikatesse (RP) Trad

red point

11
{SX} VIIc Diolomitenweg Trad
12
{SX} VIIIb Direkte Ostertour Trad
13
{SX} VIIIc Direkte Südwestwand Trad
15
{SX} IXa Ein Tag am Meer Trad
16
{SX} VIIIa Einstieg übers Dach Trad
17
{SX} VIIIa EV zur Nordwand Trad
18
{SX} VIIIb Freudiges Ereignis Trad
19
{SX} IXa Gewitterstimmung Trad
20
{SX} IXc Kleinfranken (RP) Trad

red point

21
{SX} VI Kluftweg Trad
22
{SX} VI Kombination Trad
23
{SX} III Lochweg Trad
24
{SX} VIIc Luftige Variante Trad
25
{SX} VIIIb Mit Reib und Seele Trad
26
{SX} VIIIa Nordwand Trad
27
{SX} IV Nordweg Trad
28
{SX} VIIc Ostertour Trad
29
{SX} VIIa Osterweg Trad
30
{SX} VIIIb Perlenkette (RP) Trad

red point

31
{SX} IXb Platzreife Trad
32
{SX} IXa Quicky Trad
33
{SX} III Reibung Trad
34
{SX} VIIIc Sechs-Ringe-Menü Trad
35
{SX} VIIb Südwestseite Trad
36
{SX} VIIIb Südwestwand Trad
37
{SX} VIIa Talkesselweg Trad
38
{SX} VI Traversierung Trad
39
{SX} VIIIb Überm schwarzen Loch Trad
40
{SX} VIIIb Variante Nr. 3 Trad
41
42
43
44
{SX} VIIc Variante zur Westflanke Trad
45
{SX} VIIIa Von Ring zu Ring Trad
46
{SX} VIIIa Westflanke (RP) Trad

red point

47
{SX} IXa Westkante (RP) Trad

red point

48
{SX} 2 Zufallssprung Trad