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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
I
Trad
2 Ausstiegsereignis
VIIIb
Trad
3 Bergfahrt
VIIa
Trad
4 Birkenkamin
III
Trad
5 Bon Appetite (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
6 Boykott
IXb
Trad
7 Bunter Kessel
VIIIa
Trad
8 Copa
IXa
Trad
9 Dachweg
IV
Trad
10 Delikatesse (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
11 Diolomitenweg
VIIc
Trad
12 Direkte Ostertour
VIIIb
Trad
13 Direkte Südwestwand
VIIIc
Trad
14 Direktes "Von Ring zu Ring"
VIIIa
Trad
15 Ein Tag am Meer
IXa
Trad
16 Einstieg übers Dach
VIIIa
Trad
17 EV zur Nordwand
VIIIa
Trad
18 Freudiges Ereignis
VIIIb
Trad
19 Gewitterstimmung
IXa
Trad
20 Kleinfranken (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
21 Kluftweg
VI
Trad
22 Kombination
VI
Trad
23 Lochweg
III
Trad
24 Luftige Variante
VIIc
Trad
25 Mit Reib und Seele
VIIIb
Trad
26 Nordwand
VIIIa
Trad
27 Nordweg
IV
Trad
28 Ostertour
VIIc
Trad
29 Osterweg
VIIa
Trad
30 Perlenkette (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
31 Platzreife
IXb
Trad
32 Quicky
IXa
Trad
33 Reibung
III
Trad
34 Sechs-Ringe-Menü
VIIIc
Trad
35 Südwestseite
VIIb
Trad
36 Südwestwand
VIIIb
Trad
37 Talkesselweg
VIIa
Trad
38 Traversierung
VI
Trad
39 Überm schwarzen Loch
VIIIb
Trad
40 Variante Nr. 3
VIIIb
Trad
41 Variante zum Dolomitenweg
VIIc
Trad
42 Variante zur Kombination
VIIb
Trad
43 Variante zur Südwand
IV
Trad
44 Variante zur Westflanke
VIIc
Trad
45 Von Ring zu Ring
VIIIa
Trad
46 Westflanke (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
47 Westkante (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
48 Zufallssprung
2
Trad