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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
II
Trad
2 Ammonstraße
VIIIb
Trad
3 Banane
VIIc
Trad
4 Bananenschale
VIIc
Trad
5 Birne
VIIIc
Trad
6 Bürgersteig
IV
Trad
7 Cocktail
VIIa
Trad
8 Cocktail mit Pfiff
VIIIa
Trad
9 Cocktailkirsche
VIIa
Trad
10 Herbstsonne
VIIIb
Trad
11 Kiwi
VIIb
Trad
12 Kurzer Krampf
IV
Trad
13 Linker Schartenweg
III
Trad
14 Max Tour
IXa
Trad
15 Mix-Tour
VIIb
Trad
16 Molotovcocktail
VIIIa
Trad
17 Pfingstweg
VIIa
Trad
18 Rechter Schartenweg
II
Trad
19 Reife Pflaume
VIIIc
Trad
20 Rosine
VIIb
Trad
21 Südrippen
IV
Trad
22 Talkamin
V
Trad
23 Variante zur Mix-Tour
VIIb
Trad