A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Rohnspitze 21 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.229326, 50.912779

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IVTrad
2 Direkte Nordwestkante (RP)

red point

3 Direkte Ostwand VIIcTrad
4 direkte Südostecke IXbTrad
5 Dolch VIIIbTrad
6 Kreuzweg IXaTrad
7 Küstennebel XbTrad
8 Nordwand IXaTrad
9 Nordwestkante IXcTrad
10 Ostwand VIIcTrad
11 Reitzweg VIIcTrad
12 Reitzweg (oU)

without support

13 Reitzweg mit Ausstieg Kreuzweg VIIIbTrad
14 Scharfe Klinge (RP)

red point

15 Skateboard IXbTrad
16 Standwaage (RP)

red point

17 Südostecke VIIIcTrad
18 Typisch Sachsen! IXaTrad
19 Über die Dolchspitze (RP)

red point

20 Übergangsweg VTrad
21 Von allen etwas IXaTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
IV Alter Weg Trad
V Übergangsweg Trad
VIIc Direkte Ostwand Trad
Ostwand Trad
Reitzweg Trad
VIIIb Dolch Trad
Reitzweg (oU) Trad
Reitzweg mit Ausstieg Kreuzweg Trad
VIIIc Südostecke Trad
IXa Kreuzweg Trad
Nordwand Trad
Typisch Sachsen! Trad
Von allen etwas Trad
Über die Dolchspitze (RP) Trad
IXb Skateboard Trad
direkte Südostecke Trad
IXc Nordwestkante Trad
Standwaage (RP) Trad
Xa Direkte Nordwestkante (RP) Trad
Xb Küstennebel Trad
Xc Scharfe Klinge (RP) Trad