A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Rohnspitze 21 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.229326, 50.912779

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg {SX} IV Trad
2 Direkte Nordwestkante (RP)

red point

{SX} Xa Trad
3 Direkte Ostwand {SX} VIIc Trad
4 direkte Südostecke {SX} IXb Trad
5 Dolch {SX} VIIIb Trad
6 Kreuzweg {SX} IXa Trad
7 Küstennebel {SX} Xb Trad
8 Nordwand {SX} IXa Trad
9 Nordwestkante {SX} IXc Trad
10 Ostwand {SX} VIIc Trad
11 Reitzweg {SX} VIIc Trad
12 Reitzweg (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIIb Trad
13 Reitzweg mit Ausstieg Kreuzweg {SX} VIIIb Trad
14 Scharfe Klinge (RP)

red point

{SX} Xc Trad
15 Skateboard {SX} IXb Trad
16 Standwaage (RP)

red point

{SX} IXc Trad
17 Südostecke {SX} VIIIc Trad
18 Typisch Sachsen! {SX} IXa Trad
19 Über die Dolchspitze (RP)

red point

{SX} IXa Trad
20 Übergangsweg {SX} V Trad
21 Von allen etwas {SX} IXa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
IV Alter Weg Trad
V Übergangsweg Trad
VIIc Direkte Ostwand Trad
Ostwand Trad
Reitzweg Trad
VIIIb Dolch Trad
Reitzweg (oU) Trad
Reitzweg mit Ausstieg Kreuzweg Trad
VIIIc Südostecke Trad
IXa Kreuzweg Trad
Nordwand Trad
Typisch Sachsen! Trad
Von allen etwas Trad
Über die Dolchspitze (RP) Trad
IXb Skateboard Trad
direkte Südostecke Trad
IXc Nordwestkante Trad
Standwaage (RP) Trad
Xa Direkte Nordwestkante (RP) Trad
Xb Küstennebel Trad
Xc Scharfe Klinge (RP) Trad