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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
VIIIb Achziger Weg Trad
2
IV Alter Weg Trad
3
VIIb Außenriß Trad
5
VIIIb Bergfinkenweg Trad
6
VIIc Blockriß Trad
10

without support

11
VIIIa Edelstahlkante Trad
12
VIIIa Eisenmann Trad
13
Xc Garten Eden Trad
14
IXb Grenzenlos Trad
15
VIIIa Großes Dach Trad
16
VI Hohe Rampe Trad
17
18
Xa Metermaß Trad
20
VIIIb Nahtstelle Trad
21
22
IXb Nordeck Trad
23
V Nordostweg Trad
24
VIIb Nordwestweg Trad
25
VIIa Ostkante Trad
26
VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
27
V Querweg Trad
28
VIIIb Rippenstück Trad
29
VIIb Schartenweg Trad
31
IXa Siebziger Weg Trad
32

without support

33
VIIIa Später Weg Trad
34
VIIIa Stahlkante Trad
35
V Südostwand Trad
36
III Südostweg Trad
37
V Südweg Trad
38
VIIIb Talweg (RP) Trad

red point

41
VIIIc Visafrei Trad
42
IXb Westwand Trad

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