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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIIb Achziger Weg Trad
2
SX IV Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIb Außenriß Trad
4
SX VIIIb AV zum Bergfinkenweg Trad
5
SX VIIIb Bergfinkenweg Trad
6
SX VIIc Blockriß Trad
8
SX VIIc Direkter Schartenweg Trad
10

without support

11
SX VIIIa Edelstahlkante Trad
12
SX VIIIa Eisenmann Trad
13
SX Xc Garten Eden Trad
14
SX IXb Grenzenlos Trad
15
SX VIIIa Großes Dach Trad
16
SX VI Hohe Rampe Trad
17
SX Xa Klein England Trad
18
SX Xa Metermaß Trad
19
20
SX VIIIb Nahtstelle Trad
21
SX Xa Neunziger Weg Trad
22
SX IXb Nordeck Trad
23
SX V Nordostweg Trad
24
SX VIIb Nordwestweg Trad
25
SX VIIa Ostkante Trad
26
SX VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
27
SX V Querweg Trad
28
SX VIIIb Rippenstück Trad
29
SX VIIb Schartenweg Trad
30
SX VIIb Schwefelbrüderweg Trad
31
SX IXa Siebziger Weg Trad
32
SX IXb Siebziger Weg (oU) Trad

without support

33
SX VIIIa Später Weg Trad
34
SX VIIIa Stahlkante Trad
35
SX V Südostwand Trad
36
SX III Südostweg Trad
37
SX V Südweg Trad
38
SX VIIIb Talweg (RP) Trad

red point

41
SX VIIIc Visafrei Trad
42
SX IXb Westwand Trad