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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIIb Achziger Weg Trad
2
{SX} IV Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VIIb Außenriß Trad
4
{SX} VIIIb AV zum Bergfinkenweg Trad
5
{SX} VIIIb Bergfinkenweg Trad
6
{SX} VIIc Blockriß Trad
7
8
{SX} VIIc Direkter Schartenweg Trad
9
10

without support

11
{SX} VIIIa Edelstahlkante Trad
12
{SX} VIIIa Eisenmann Trad
13
{SX} Xc Garten Eden Trad
14
{SX} IXb Grenzenlos Trad
15
{SX} VIIIa Großes Dach Trad
16
{SX} VI Hohe Rampe Trad
17
{SX} Xa Klein England Trad
18
{SX} Xa Metermaß Trad
19
{SX} Xa Millimetervariante Trad
20
{SX} VIIIb Nahtstelle Trad
21
{SX} Xa Neunziger Weg Trad
22
{SX} IXb Nordeck Trad
23
{SX} V Nordostweg Trad
24
{SX} VIIb Nordwestweg Trad
25
{SX} VIIa Ostkante Trad
26
{SX} VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
27
{SX} V Querweg Trad
28
{SX} VIIIb Rippenstück Trad
29
{SX} VIIb Schartenweg Trad
30
{SX} VIIb Schwefelbrüderweg Trad
31
{SX} IXa Siebziger Weg Trad
32
{SX} IXb Siebziger Weg (oU) Trad

without support

33
{SX} VIIIa Später Weg Trad
34
{SX} VIIIa Stahlkante Trad
35
{SX} V Südostwand Trad
36
{SX} III Südostweg Trad
37
{SX} V Südweg Trad
38
{SX} VIIIb Talweg (RP) Trad

red point

39
40
{SX} VIIa Variante zum Pfingstweg Trad
41
{SX} VIIIc Visafrei Trad
42
{SX} IXb Westwand Trad