Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Achziger Weg
VIIIb
Trad
2 Alter Weg
IV
Trad
3 Außenriß
VIIb
Trad
4 AV zum Bergfinkenweg
VIIIb
Trad
5 Bergfinkenweg
VIIIb
Trad
6 Blockriß
VIIc
Trad
7 Direkter Bergfinkenweg
IXb
Trad
8 Direkter Schartenweg
VIIc
Trad
9 Direkter Siebziger Weg
IXa
Trad
10 Direkter Siebziger Weg (oU)

without support

IXb
Trad
11 Edelstahlkante
VIIIa
Trad
12 Eisenmann
VIIIa
Trad
13 Garten Eden
Xc
Trad
14 Grenzenlos
IXb
Trad
15 Großes Dach
VIIIa
Trad
16 Hohe Rampe
VI
Trad
17 Klein England
Xa
Trad
18 Metermaß
Xa
Trad
19 Millimetervariante
Xa
Trad
20 Nahtstelle
VIIIb
Trad
21 Neunziger Weg
Xa
Trad
22 Nordeck
IXb
Trad
23 Nordostweg
V
Trad
24 Nordwestweg
VIIb
Trad
25 Ostkante
VIIa
Trad
26 Pfingstweg
VIIb
Trad
27 Querweg
V
Trad
28 Rippenstück
VIIIb
Trad
29 Schartenweg
VIIb
Trad
30 Schwefelbrüderweg
VIIb
Trad
31 Siebziger Weg
IXa
Trad
32 Siebziger Weg (oU)

without support

IXb
Trad
33 Später Weg
VIIIa
Trad
34 Stahlkante
VIIIa
Trad
35 Südostwand
V
Trad
36 Südostweg
III
Trad
37 Südweg
V
Trad
38 Talweg (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
39 Variante zum Nordwestweg
VIIb
Trad
40 Variante zum Pfingstweg
VIIa
Trad
41 Visafrei
VIIIc
Trad
42 Westwand
IXb
Trad