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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
III
Trad
2 Direkter Wilder Mann
VIIIc
Trad
3 Domflanke
VIIb
Trad
4 Emotionen
Xa
Trad
5 Freundschaftshangel
VIIb
Trad
6 Hangelei
VIIc
Trad
7 Hangelzustieg
VIIIb
Trad
8 Hausgipfel
VIIIb
Trad
9 Klubvariante
VI
Trad
10 Monsun (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
11 Morität
IXc
Trad
12 Neue Südwand
VIIc
Trad
13 Neuer Talweg
VIIa
Trad
14 Neuer Talweg (oU)

without support

VIIc
Trad
15 Nordweg
III
Trad
16 Nordwestwand
V
Trad
17 Nordwestweg
II
Trad
18 Ostwand
IXb
Trad
19 Pfahlwurzel
IXa
Trad
20 Sandsturm
IXc
Trad
21 Schaukelei
VIIc
Trad
22 Schaukelei (oU)

without support

VIIIb
Trad
23 Spiel der Nerven
VIIIc
Trad
24 Südwand
VIIc
Trad
25 Südwestweg
II
Trad
26 Talweg
VIIa
Trad
27 Tanz im Schatten
IXa
Trad
28 Urprojekt
IXc
Trad
29 Versteinerter Baum
IXa
Trad
30 Wasserspiele
VIIb
Trad
31 Westwand
V
Trad
32 Wilder Mann
VIIIb
Trad
33 Zur Kiefer
VIIIb
Trad