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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX III Alter Weg Trad
2
SX VIIIc Direkter Wilder Mann Trad
3
SX VIIb Domflanke Trad
4
SX Xa Emotionen Trad
5
SX VIIb Freundschaftshangel Trad
6
SX VIIc Hangelei Trad
7
SX VIIIb Hangelzustieg Trad
8
SX VIIIb Hausgipfel Trad
9
SX VI Klubvariante Trad
10
SX IXb Monsun (RP) Trad

red point

11
SX IXc Morität Trad
12
SX VIIc Neue Südwand Trad
13
SX VIIa Neuer Talweg Trad
14
SX VIIc Neuer Talweg (oU) Trad

without support

15
SX III Nordweg Trad
16
SX V Nordwestwand Trad
17
SX II Nordwestweg Trad
18
SX IXb Ostwand Trad
19
SX IXa Pfahlwurzel Trad
20
SX IXc Sandsturm Trad
21
SX VIIc Schaukelei Trad
22
SX VIIIb Schaukelei (oU) Trad

without support

23
SX VIIIc Spiel der Nerven Trad
24
SX VIIc Südwand Trad
25
SX II Südwestweg Trad
26
SX VIIa Talweg Trad
27
SX IXa Tanz im Schatten Trad
28
SX IXc Urprojekt Trad
29
SX IXa Versteinerter Baum Trad
30
SX VIIb Wasserspiele Trad
31
SX V Westwand Trad
32
SX VIIIb Wilder Mann Trad
33
SX VIIIb Zur Kiefer Trad