A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Vorderes Leuchterweibchen 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.234072, 50.917371

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg {SX} IV Trad
2 Blanker Horror {SX} IXb Trad
3 Direkte Westwand {SX} VIIIa Trad
4 Direkte Westwand (Nordwestwand) {SX} VIIIa Trad
5 Drahtbürste {SX} VIIIc Trad
6 Durststrecke {SX} VIIIb Trad
7 Gewitterweg {SX} V Trad
8 Goldener Esel {SX} IXb Trad
9 Leuchtspur {SX} IXa Trad
10 Liebesleiter {SX} VIIc Trad
11 Mäander {SX} VIIIb Trad
12 Mannequinvariante {SX} VIIIc Trad
13 Nebelrinne {SX} IXc Trad
14 Nordweg {SX} VI Trad
15 Nordweg (oU)

without support

{SX} VIIa Trad
16 Nordwestweg {SX} VIIc Trad
17 Rißvariante {SX} VIIa Trad
18 Schlankheitskur {SX} Xa Trad
19 Shadow Warrior {SX} IXc Trad
20 Südostweg {SX} VIIb Trad
21 Südwestwand {SX} VIIIc Trad
22 Ullrichriß {SX} VI Trad
23 Ullrichriß direkt {SX} VI Trad
24 Variante zum Alten Weg {SX} III Trad
25 Variante zum AW {SX} III Trad
26 Variante zur Westwand {SX} VIIa Trad
27 Wellenreiter {SX} VIIIb Trad
28 Westwand {SX} VIIa Trad
29 Westwand (Nordwestwand) {SX} VIIa Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Variante zum AW Trad
Variante zum Alten Weg Trad
IV Alter Weg Trad
V Gewitterweg Trad
VI Nordweg Trad
Ullrichriß Trad
Ullrichriß direkt Trad
VIIa Nordweg (oU) Trad
Rißvariante Trad
Variante zur Westwand Trad
Westwand Trad
Westwand (Nordwestwand) Trad
VIIb Südostweg Trad
VIIc Liebesleiter Trad
Nordwestweg Trad
VIIIa Direkte Westwand Trad
Direkte Westwand (Nordwestwand) Trad
VIIIb Durststrecke Trad
Mäander Trad
Wellenreiter Trad
VIIIc Drahtbürste Trad
Mannequinvariante Trad
Südwestwand Trad
IXa Leuchtspur Trad
IXb Blanker Horror Trad
Goldener Esel Trad
IXc Nebelrinne Trad
Shadow Warrior Trad
Xa Schlankheitskur Trad