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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Aehligweg
VIIb
Trad
2 Alter Weg
IV
Trad
3 Bohrn to be wild
Xa
Trad
4 Bohrn to be wild (oU)

without support

Xb
Trad
5 Des Teufels drei goldene Haare
IXb
Trad
6 Des Teufels Großmutter
VIIIb
Trad
7 Direkte Südwestwand
Xb
Trad
8 Direkter Westweg
VIIc
Trad
9 Ende gut-alles gut
Xa
Trad
10 Feuerlöscher
Xc
Trad
11 Gemeinschaftskante
Xc
Trad
12 Gemeinschaftsweg
VIIIa
Trad
13 Heißer Schnee
VIIIb
Trad
14 Im Fegefeuer (RP)

red point

Xa
Trad
15 Mensch ärgere Dich nicht
VIIIa
Trad
16 Neue Runde - Neues Glück
VIIIc
Trad
17 Nordostweg
V
Trad
18 Nordpfeiler
VIIc
Trad
19 Nordwand
VIIb
Trad
20 Orang Utan
XIa
Trad
21 Rauhe Kante
VIIb
Trad
22 Schartenvariante
IV
Trad
23 Schartenweg
V
Trad
24 Sprung
IV/2
Trad
25 Südostweg
VI
Trad
26 Südweg
VIIa
Trad
27 Südwestwand
VIIc
Trad
28 Tanzende Sterne (RP)

red point

Xc
Trad
29 Tote Oma
IXb
Trad
30 Übergangsweg
IV
Trad
31 Variante
IV
Trad
32 Variante zum Nordostweg
VIIa
Trad
33 Variante zum Südweg
VIIa
Trad
34 Westweg
VI
Trad
35 Wilde Hölle
IXb
Trad