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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIb Aehligweg Trad
2
{SX} IV Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} Xa Bohrn to be wild Trad
4

without support

6
{SX} VIIIb Des Teufels Großmutter Trad
7
{SX} Xb Direkte Südwestwand Trad
8
{SX} VIIc Direkter Westweg Trad
9
{SX} Xa Ende gut-alles gut Trad
10
{SX} Xc Feuerlöscher Trad
11
{SX} Xc Gemeinschaftskante Trad
12
{SX} VIIIa Gemeinschaftsweg Trad
13
{SX} VIIIb Heißer Schnee Trad
14
{SX} Xa Im Fegefeuer (RP) Trad

red point

15
16
17
{SX} V Nordostweg Trad
18
{SX} VIIc Nordpfeiler Trad
19
{SX} VIIb Nordwand Trad
20
{SX} XIa Orang Utan Trad
21
{SX} VIIb Rauhe Kante Trad
22
{SX} IV Schartenvariante Trad
23
{SX} V Schartenweg Trad
24
{SX} IV 2 Sprung Trad
25
{SX} VI Südostweg Trad
26
{SX} VIIa Südweg Trad
27
{SX} VIIc Südwestwand Trad
28
{SX} Xc Tanzende Sterne (RP) Trad

red point

29
{SX} IXb Tote Oma Trad
30
{SX} IV Übergangsweg Trad
31
{SX} IV Variante Trad
32
{SX} VIIa Variante zum Nordostweg Trad
33
{SX} VIIa Variante zum Südweg Trad
34
{SX} VI Westweg Trad
35
{SX} IXb Wilde Hölle Trad