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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
III
Trad
2 Birkenkamin
III
Trad
3 Blockvariante zum Alten Weg
III
Trad
4 Brombeerkamin
III
Trad
5 Direkte Mammutschlucht
V
Trad
6 Direkter Promenadenweg
VIIIa
Trad
7 Externer Weg
V
Trad
8 Hundebahnhof
VIIb
Trad
9 Interner Weg
III
Trad
10 Jubiläumsweg
VIIb
Trad
11 Kaminvariante
III
Trad
12 Kluftkamin
III
Trad
13 Kluftkante
IV
Trad
14 Kluftvariante
III
Trad
15 Kluftwand
VIIb
Trad
16 Kreuzweg
VI
Trad
17 Mammutschlucht
VIIb
Trad
18 Muddelfritze
VIIIb
Trad
19 Nordriß
IV
Trad
20 Nordstiege
VIIa
Trad
21 Ostpfeiler
VIIc
Trad
22 Outside the Wall
VIIIc
Trad
23 Pfeilervariante
IV
Trad
24 Promenadenweg
VIIb
Trad
25 Rißvariante
III
Trad
26 Schartenriß
III
Trad
27 S-Kurve
VI
Trad
28 Südwestkamin
III
Trad
29 Südwestweg
III
Trad
30 Verlängerte Kluftkante
IV
Trad
31 Weiße Rippe
VI
Trad