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Area Guide for Frienstein
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Table of contents
- 1. Frienstein
235 in Area
- 1.1. Friensteinkegel 9 in Cliff
- 1.2. Vergessener Kegel 5 in Cliff
- 1.3. Grottenwart 14 in Cliff
- 1.4. Rollenturm 8 in Cliff
- 1.5. Frienstein 98 in Cliff
- 1.6. Schandauer Turm 6 in Cliff
- 1.7. Friensteinwächter 8 in Cliff
- 1.8. Friensteinwarte 11 in Cliff
- 1.9. Untertan 11 in Cliff
- 1.10. Kleiner Amboß 8 in Cliff
- 1.11. Heidelbeerturm 15 in Cliff
- 1.12. Turm der Freundschaft 10 in Cliff
- 1.13. Greenhorn 4 in Cliff
- 1.14. Verwitterter Turm 12 in Cliff
- 1.15. Satanskopf 16 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Frienstein 235 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad
Long/Lat: 14.244438, 50.912271
- Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
-
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .
- Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
-
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
1.1. Friensteinkegel 9 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.246240, 50.912910
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | VIIIa | ||||
| 2 |
Alter Weg (oU)
without support | VIIIb | ||||
| 3 | Buschmeister | Xa | ||||
| 4 | Das Rauschen der Wälder | Xa | ||||
| 5 | Die Zeiten kommen nicht mehr zurück | Xc | ||||
| 6 | Direkte Talkante | IXc | ||||
| 7 | Kür | VIIc | ||||
| 8 | Leidenschaft | IXc | ||||
| 9 | Talkante | IXc | ||||
1.2. Vergessener Kegel 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.246759, 50.912273
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Abseilschlucht | V | ||||
| 2 | Alter Weg | V | ||||
| 3 | Kluftweg | VI | ||||
| 4 |
Talkante (RP)
red point | IXa | ||||
| 5 | Talweg | VI | ||||
1.3. Grottenwart 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.246332, 50.912687
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | IV | ||||
| 2 | Direkte Windstille | Xa | ||||
| 3 | Grottentango | Xb | ||||
| 4 | Im Windkanal | IXc | ||||
| 5 | Nordostweg | IV | ||||
| 6 | Nordvariante | V | ||||
| 7 | Nordweg | VIIa | ||||
| 8 | Strubichweg | VI | ||||
| 9 | Südwestweg | VIIc | ||||
| 10 | Talvariante | V | ||||
| 11 | Videoshow | XIa | ||||
| 12 | wächterstiege | IXb | ||||
| 13 |
Was nützt die Liebe in Gedanken? (RP)
red point | Xb | ||||
| 14 | Windstille | Xa | ||||
1.4. Rollenturm 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.247400, 50.911480
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III | ||||
| 2 |
Nebenrolle (RP)
red point | IXa | ||||
| 3 | Neuer Talweg | VIIc | ||||
| 4 | Rolling home | Xa | ||||
| 5 | Rollkur | IXb | ||||
| 6 | Schartenschlucht | IV | ||||
| 7 | Südriß | VIIIc | ||||
| 8 | Talriß | VIIa | ||||
1.5. Frienstein 98 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.246529, 50.912500
1.6. Schandauer Turm 6 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.246251, 50.911762
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | VIIc | ||||
| 2 | Kurzer Weg | VIIb | ||||
| 3 |
Langer Weg (RP)
red point | VIIIa | ||||
| 4 | Stumpfsinn | VIIc | ||||
| 5 | Talweg | VIIc | ||||
| 6 | Zufallsweg | VIIc | ||||
1.7. Friensteinwächter 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.245318, 50.912371
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1000 und eine Nacht | Xb | ||||
| 2 | Alter Weg | VIIc | ||||
| 3 | Demonstration | IXa | ||||
| 4 | Grand Prix | IXc | ||||
| 5 | Große Schlacht | Xb | ||||
| 6 | Mannschaftsleistung | VIIIc | ||||
| 7 | Trostpreis | IXc | ||||
| 8 | Westwand | VIIIa | ||||
1.8. Friensteinwarte 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.244899, 50.912652
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | IV | ||||
| 2 | Ausflug ins Nirwana | Xa | ||||
| 3 | Äußerer Talweg | VIIa | ||||
| 4 | Kalter Winkel | V | ||||
| 5 | Kleines Glück | IXc | ||||
| 6 | Nordostverschneidung | IV | ||||
| 7 | Nordwestrisse | VIIIc | ||||
| 8 | Schlafender Buddha | Xc | ||||
| 9 | Talweg | VI | ||||
| 10 | Wiedergeburt | Xc | ||||
| 11 | Zauberei im Hinterhof | Xa | ||||
1.9. Untertan 11 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.244690, 50.912180
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Bergweg | IV | ||||
| 2 | Direkte Rostige Wand | IXb | ||||
| 3 | Entroster | Xa | ||||
| 4 | Irrweg | III | ||||
| 5 | Kaskade | IXb | ||||
| 6 | Kreislaufspritze | VIIb | ||||
| 7 | Rostige Wand | VIIIc | ||||
| 8 |
Rostige Wand (oU)
without support | IXa | ||||
| 9 | Rostiger Riß | IXb | ||||
| 10 | Sprung | 2 | ||||
| 11 | Talweg | VI | ||||
1.10. Kleiner Amboß 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.245566, 50.911799
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 1. April-Weg | VIIa | ||||
| 2 | Alter Weg | VI | ||||
| 3 |
Alter Weg (oU)
without support | VIIb | ||||
| 4 | Alternative | VIIIa | ||||
| 5 | Angebot | VIIIa | ||||
| 6 | Pfingstkante | VIIIb | ||||
| 7 | Variante zum AW | VIIc | ||||
| 8 | Variante zumAlten Weg | VIIIa | ||||
1.11. Heidelbeerturm 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.243566, 50.912518
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | III | ||||
| 2 | Beerenpflücken | VIIIc | ||||
| 3 | Brachlandaktion | V | ||||
| 4 | Erdbeerzeit | IXa | ||||
| 5 | Kluftweg | VIIa | ||||
| 6 | Linker Schartenweg | III | ||||
| 7 |
Mann im Mond (RP)
red point | Xa | ||||
| 8 |
Meteor (RP)
red point | IXc | ||||
| 9 | Nordostriß | VI | ||||
| 10 | Nordweg | V | ||||
| 11 | Rechter Schartenweg | VI | ||||
| 12 | Talweg | VI | ||||
| 13 | Variante zum Nordostriß | VIIb | ||||
| 14 | Variante zum Nordweg | V | ||||
| 15 | Variante zum Rechten Schartenweg | VI | ||||
1.12. Turm der Freundschaft 10 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.242632, 50.913042
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | VI | ||||
| 2 | Gratweg | IV | ||||
| 3 | Pfeilerverschneidung | VIIa | ||||
| 4 | Schartenwand | VIIb | ||||
| 5 | Stille | VIIIc | ||||
| 6 | Subversive Elemente | VIIa | ||||
| 7 | Talvariante | VIIb | ||||
| 8 | Talweg | VIIb | ||||
| 9 | Variante | IV | ||||
| 10 | Variante zum Gratweg | IV | ||||
1.13. Greenhorn 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.243337, 50.912486
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | IV | ||||
| 2 | Ata-Pfeiler | VIIa | ||||
| 3 | Brauneisenröhre | VIIa | ||||
| 4 | Variante zur Brauneisenröhre | VIIa | ||||
1.14. Verwitterter Turm 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.244430, 50.910740
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | IV | ||||
| 2 |
Alter Weg (oU)
without support | VI | ||||
| 3 | Boulder-Ei | VIIIa | ||||
| 4 | Familienspaß | VIIIc | ||||
| 5 | Familienspaß direkt | IXc | ||||
| 6 | Nordwestkante | VI | ||||
| 7 | Nur geträumt | VIIIb | ||||
| 8 | Rauchgeist | VIIIa | ||||
| 9 | Südwand | VIIa | ||||
| 10 |
Südwand (oU)
without support | VIIIa | ||||
| 11 | Südweg | VIIc | ||||
| 12 | Tanzstunde | IXa | ||||
1.15. Satanskopf 16 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 14.241731, 50.912899
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Alter Weg | VI | ||||
| 2 |
Alter Weg (oU)
without support | VIIb | ||||
| 3 | alter Weg rechts | VIIb | ||||
| 4 | Mix-Tour | VIIIa | ||||
| 5 | Neuer Westweg | VIIIa | ||||
| 6 | Ostkante | VIIIa | ||||
| 7 |
Satanische Ferse (RP)
red point | Xa | ||||
| 8 | Schade | Xa | ||||
| 9 | Schwupp und hoch | VIIIb | ||||
| 10 | Seibtweg | V | ||||
| 11 | Südostwand | VIIIb | ||||
| 12 | Südwestweg | VI | ||||
| 13 | Teuflische Gedanken | IXb | ||||
| 14 | Variante zumSüdwestweg | VI | ||||
| 15 | Westweg | VIIb | ||||
| 16 | Winkelweg | VIIa | ||||
