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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Wolfsturm Cliff All Trad 100
2Bloßstock Cliff All Trad 440
3Affenhorn Cliff All Trad 210
4Falsche Zinne Cliff All Trad 120
5Affenstein Cliff All Trad 111
6Knochenturm Cliff All Trad 160
7Morsche Zinne Cliff All Trad 350
8Kreuzturm Cliff All Trad 240
9Wolfsnadel Cliff All Trad 100
10Klosterwächter Cliff All Trad 100
11Wolfsspitze Cliff All Trad 120
12Nonnengärtner Cliff All Trad 370
13Gamshornspitze Cliff All Trad 61
14Backzahn Cliff All Trad 90
15Wolfsfalle Cliff All Trad 240
16Hentzschelturm Cliff All Trad 50
17Bauerlochturm Cliff All Trad 200
18Gipfelbubenkopf Cliff All Trad 100
19Dämon Cliff All Trad 90
20Wotan Cliff All Trad 90
21Veteran Cliff All Trad 140
22Gamshornwächter Cliff All Trad 130