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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Brückenturm Cliff All Trad 140
2Teufelsspitze Cliff All Trad 120
3Brosinnadel Cliff All Trad 290
4Freie Wand Cliff All Trad 110
5Amboß Cliff All Trad 250
6Flachsköpfe Cliff All Trad 450
7Panoramaturm Cliff All Trad 60
8Freier Turm Cliff All Trad 240
9Partisan Cliff All Trad 70
10Friseur Cliff All Trad 70
11Glatze Cliff All Trad 90
12Hauptdrilling Cliff All Trad 160
13Härtelturm Cliff All Trad 120
14Schuellernadel Cliff All Trad 110
15Hähnelspitze Cliff All Trad 50
16Rokokoturm Cliff All Trad 420
17Friensteiner Zacken Cliff All Trad 330
18Höllentor Cliff All Trad 100
19Wilde Zinne Cliff All Trad 350
20Wilder Kopf Cliff All Trad 180
21Beelzebub Cliff All Trad 130
22Jammerspitze Cliff All Trad 50
23Leuchterweibchen-Vorkopf Cliff All Trad 180
24Vorderes Leuchterweibchen Cliff All Trad 290
25Hinteres Leuchterweibchen Cliff All Trad 180