Bielatal Mostly trad climbing

3,795 routes in crag

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Summary

Narrow valley with high density of small and mid-sized pinnacles of hard sandstone

Description

The Bielatal hosts the highest density of summits in the area. Its smaller and mid-sized cliffs with amazing shapes, comparatively hard sandstone that dries quickly and short approaches make it one of the most popular destinations, especially for beginners. Expect crowds and chaotic parking situations during weekends - boost your eco-Karma (and train your patience) by using the bus. The summits close to the parking may additionally be haunted by non-climbing folk. However, if you walk up the valley a little further you can always find a quiet spot.

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Approach

Take the bus from the train station of Königstein to Schweizermühle, which is located at the start of the valley. Using the car, pass Schweizermühle towards Ottomühle and park at the parking (fee).

Where to stay

Alpine Club hut (SBB Hütte) in Ottomühle provides cheap beds, camping on request. Check in advance (www.bielatal-huette.de). The Ottomühle (http://ottomuehle.com/ ) also offers some rooms.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
175
10
278
21
18m
281
18
25m
318
26
143
12
470
8
557
9
20m
578
19

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