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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
I
Trad
2 Direkter Südriß
V
Trad
3 Goldener Riecher
VIIIb
Trad
4 Juniweg (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
5 Lockruf
VIIIb
Trad
6 Mannomann (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
7 Nette Wand
V
Trad
8 Neuer Südriß
IV
Trad
9 Neuer Südweg
VIIa
Trad
10 Neuer Weg
VI
Trad
11 Nordkante
VI
Trad
12 Nordostweg
V
Trad
13 Nordriß
IV
Trad
14 Nordwand
VIIa
Trad
15 Nordweg
VI
Trad
16 Ohne Sinn (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
17 Randstreifen (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
18 Reißigkante (RP)

red point

VIIb
Trad
19 Schmalseite (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
20 Schwarze Rose
VIIIb
Trad
21 Sonnenuntergang
VIIc
Trad
22 Südriß
III
Trad
23 Südriß direkt
V
Trad
24 Südweg
IV
Trad
25 Südwestkante
VIIb
Trad
26 Talweg
VIIIa
Trad
27 Variante
VIIb
Trad
28 Variante zum AW
IV
Trad
29 Variante zum Nordostweg
VI
Trad
30 Variante zum Südweg
VI
Trad
31 Verbindungsvariante
VIIIa
Trad
32 Westweg
V
Trad