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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX I Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIIb Goldener Riecher Trad
4
SX VIIIa Juniweg (RP) Trad

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5
SX VIIIb Lockruf Trad
6
SX IXa Mannomann (RP) Trad

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7
SX V Nette Wand Trad
8
SX IV Neuer Südriß Trad
9
SX VIIa Neuer Südweg Trad
10
SX VI Neuer Weg Trad
11
SX VI Nordkante Trad
12
SX V Nordostweg Trad
13
SX IV Nordriß Trad
14
SX VIIa Nordwand Trad
15
SX VI Nordweg Trad
16
SX VIIIa Ohne Sinn (RP) Trad

red point

17
SX VIIIa Randstreifen (RP) Trad

red point

18
SX VIIb Reißigkante (RP) Trad

red point

19
SX IXa Schmalseite (RP) Trad

red point

20
SX VIIIb Schwarze Rose Trad
21
SX VIIc Sonnenuntergang Trad
22
SX III Südriß Trad
23
SX V Südriß direkt Trad
24
SX IV Südweg Trad
25
SX VIIb Südwestkante Trad
26
SX VIIIa Talweg Trad
27
SX VIIb Variante Trad
28
SX IV Variante zum AW Trad
31
SX VIIIa Verbindungsvariante Trad
32
SX V Westweg Trad