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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} III Außenrist Trad
3
{SX} V Diagonale Trad
4
{SX} VIIb Einfach so Trad
5
{SX} VIIa Feine englische Art Trad
6
{SX} VI Gutes Mittelmaß Trad
7
{SX} III Keule im Rücken Trad
8
{SX} VIIb Keulenhieb (RP) Trad

red point

9
{SX} VI Kluftwand Trad
10
{SX} VIIb Knoppers Trad
11
{SX} IV Kunzstück Trad
12
{SX} VI Kurzer Spaß Trad
13
{SX} VIIb Kurzkür Trad
14
{SX} V Nordostwand Trad
15
{SX} III Ostverschneidung Trad
16
{SX} VI Parallelverschiebung Trad
17
{SX} VIIa Peep-Show (RP) Trad

red point

18
{SX} IV Pfeilerkante Trad
19
{SX} II Pfeilerweg Trad
20
{SX} VIIa Quarkkeulchen Trad
21
{SX} V Schartenrippe Trad
22
{SX} III Schartenweg Trad
23
{SX} I 2 Sprung Trad
24
{SX} VIIb Stille Tränen (RP) Trad

red point

25
{SX} VI Südkante Trad
26
{SX} III Südwestweg Trad
27
{SX} IV SU-Hangel Trad
28
{SX} II Talkamin Trad
29
{SX} V Über die Keule Trad
30
{SX} 3 Übergangssprung Trad
31
{SX} I Variante zum AW Trad
32
{SX} V Westkante Trad
33
{SX} III Westverschneidung Trad