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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
1
I * Alter Weg Trad 25m

FA: 1880

2

FA: Horst Bischoff, P. Haaser, K. Löwe, F. Gaudich, W. Friebe & M. Zimmermann, 1909

3

FA: Falk Heinicke, Dietmar Heinicke & F. Seifert, 1980

4

FA: Falk Hergert & U. Schumacher, 1987

5

FA: Peter Krüger & J. Zeibig, 1981

6
VIIb Frechdachs Trad

FA: Steffen Neunert & H. Neunert, 1988

7
VIIIb Heinis Rißspur Trad

FA: Mathis Szymczak, 1999

8
VIIIa Heinrichs Wand Trad

FA: Günter Bach, M. Wolsch, J. Grämer & W. Heinrich, 1984

9
VIIa ** Klavier Mixed 1

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith, Martha Pötzsch & R. Pötzsch, 1913

10
VIIc * Klavier direkt Mixed 2

FA: Karlheinz Güntner & G. Ludewig, 1966

11
VIIIa Lapin Kulta Trad

FA: Bernd Claudius, F. Schuster & M. John, 1999

12
IV ** Löschnerwand Trad 30m

FA: Paul Löschner, 1906

13
V Nordkante Trad

FA: Horst Heller & K. Brankoff, 1994

14
V Nordwand Trad

FA: Josef Döring, P. Herzog & K. Kopf, 1909

15
VIIa Nordwestwand Trad

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith & R. Pötzsch, 1913

16
II Nordwestweg Trad
17
VIIb Ostkante Trad

FA: Lothar Richter, F. Richter, P. Krell, U. Thomsen & R. Krell, 1977

18
IV * Ostriß Trad

FA: Herbert Reinhold, 1921

19
III * Ostweg Trad

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith, 1906

20
VIIb Perryriß Trad

FA: Oliver Perry-Smith & R. Pötsch, 1913

21
IV Pfeilerweg Trad

FA: Walter Vogt, 1921

22
VIIIa Polly Trad

FA: Daniel Mauthe, Ilka Wehlte, G. Zill & A. Knirrnschild, 1998

23
IXb Schnüffeltier Trad

FA: Uwe Schulze & F. Seifert, 1998

24
III Spreize Trad

FA: Dietmar Heinicke & F. Heinicke, 1976

25
VIIa Südkante Trad

FA: Ernst Heuer, W. Kadner, K. Richter, W. Unger, G. Rönisch & W. Lösche, 1936

26
I Südostkamin Trad 28m

FA: 1890

27

FA: Dietmar Heinicke, 1976

28

FA: Dieter Ulbrich, Martina Ulbrich, T. Preußmann & Dagmar Schneider, 1981

29

FA: Dietmar Heinicke, 1977

30
VIIc Vergessener Weg Trad

FA: Helmut Mehnert, W. Schäfer & G. Schöne, 1975

31
VIIa Weg im Schatten Trad

FA: Rolf Seipelt, 1987

32
II Westkamin Trad

FA: Rudolf Fehrmann, 1906

33
VIIc Westwand Trad

FA: Werner Göcker & S. Patke, 1969

34
II * Winkelriß Trad

FA: Erich Trautmann, 1908

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