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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
I
Trad
2 Bergbrüderweg
V
Trad
3 Dachsspur
VIIb
Trad
4 Daxspur
VIIb
Trad
5 Dir. Südkante
VIIa
Trad
6 Direkte Südkante
VIIa
Trad
7 Direkte Westwand
VIIc
Trad
8 Frechdachs
VIIb
Trad
9 Heinis Rißspur
VIIIb
Trad
10 Heinrichs Wand
VIIIa
Trad
11 Klavier
VIIa
Trad
12 Klavier direkt
VIIc
Trad
13 Lapin Kulta
VIIIa
Trad
14 Löschnerwand
IV
Trad
15 Nordkante
V
Trad
16 Nordwand
V
Trad
17 Nordwestwand
VIIa
Trad
18 Nordwestweg
II
Trad
19 Ostkante
VIIb
Trad
20 Ostriß
IV
Trad
21 Ostweg
III
Trad
22 Perryriß
VIIb
Trad
23 Pfeilerweg
IV
Trad
24 Polly
VIIIa
Trad
25 Schnüffeltier
IXb
Trad
26 Spreize
III
Trad
27 Südkante
VIIa
Trad
28 Südostkamin
I
Trad
29 Südoststiege
V
Trad
30 Tagesausklang
VI
Trad
31 Variante zum Ostweg
IV
Trad
32 Vergessener Weg
VIIc
Trad
33 Weg im Schatten
VIIa
Trad
34 Westkamin
II
Trad
35 Westwand
VIIc
Trad
36 Winkelriß
II
Trad