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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
SX I Alter Weg Trad
2
SX V Bergbrüderweg Trad
3
SX VIIb Dachsspur Trad
4
SX VIIb Daxspur Trad
5
SX VIIa Dir. Südkante Trad
6
SX VIIa Direkte Südkante Trad
7
SX VIIc Direkte Westwand Trad
8
SX VIIb Frechdachs Trad
9
SX VIIIb Heinis Rißspur Trad
10
SX VIIIa Heinrichs Wand Trad
11
SX VIIa Klavier Trad
12
SX VIIc Klavier direkt Trad
13
SX VIIIa Lapin Kulta Trad
14
SX IV Löschnerwand Trad
15
SX V Nordkante Trad
16
SX V Nordwand Trad
17
SX VIIa Nordwestwand Trad
18
SX II Nordwestweg Trad
19
SX VIIb Ostkante Trad
20
SX IV Ostriß Trad
21
SX III Ostweg Trad
22
SX VIIb Perryriß Trad
23
SX IV Pfeilerweg Trad
24
SX VIIIa Polly Trad
25
SX IXb Schnüffeltier Trad
26
SX III Spreize Trad
27
SX VIIa Südkante Trad
28
SX I Südostkamin Trad
29
SX V Südoststiege Trad
30
SX VI Tagesausklang Trad
31
32
SX VIIc Vergessener Weg Trad
33
SX VIIa Weg im Schatten Trad
34
SX II Westkamin Trad
35
SX VIIc Westwand Trad
36
SX II Winkelriß Trad