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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} VI Ameisenkante Trad
3
{SX} V Außenseiter Trad
4
{SX} IV DE zur Südstiege Trad
5
{SX} III Familientour Trad
6
{SX} III Grüner Weg Trad
7
{SX} VIIa Hintere Kante Trad
8
{SX} VIIa Kleiner Drachen Trad
10
{SX} VIIb Nordriß Trad
11
{SX} III Nordweg Trad
12
{SX} VI Nordwestkante Trad
13
{SX} VI Null-Hand Trad
14
{SX} IV Ostwand Trad
15
{SX} VIIb Phantom Trad
16
{SX} I Plattenweg Trad
17
{SX} III Punschkugel Trad
18
{SX} III Ramsch Trad
20
{SX} IV Rechter Schartenweg Trad
21
{SX} IV Roter Sand Trad
22
{SX} IV Schartenweg Trad
23
{SX} V Südostkante Trad
24
{SX} V Südostweg Trad
25
{SX} VI Südostweg (oU) Trad

without support

26
{SX} IV Südstiege Trad
27
{SX} V Südwand Trad
28
{SX} II Südweg Trad
29
{SX} IV Südwestkante Trad
30
{SX} II Südwinkel Trad
31
{SX} II Talkamin Trad
32
{SX} IV Talweg Trad
33
{SX} IV Westkante Trad