A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Warning

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Glasergrundwächter 18 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.045020, 50.830890

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Adlerfeder VIIb Trad
2 Alter Weg II Trad
3 EV zum Talweg V Trad
4 Gabelung VI Trad
5 Gute Zeiten Schlechte Zeiten VIIa Trad
6 Kaminvariante II Trad
7 Kaminvariante zum AW II Trad
8 Neuer Weg III Trad
9 Nordostriß VI Trad
10 Nordostweg III Trad
11 Raumpfleger VI Trad
12 Rißkante VIIb Trad
13 Südostweg IV Trad
14 Südwestriß VI Trad
15 Talweg IV Trad
16 Westkante V Trad
17 Winkelweg VI Trad
18 Wir können auch anders VIIb Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
Kaminvariante Trad
Kaminvariante zum AW Trad
III Neuer Weg Trad
Nordostweg Trad
IV Südostweg Trad
Talweg Trad
V EV zum Talweg Trad
Westkante Trad
VI Gabelung Trad
Nordostriß Trad
Raumpfleger Trad
Südwestriß Trad
Winkelweg Trad
VIIa Gute Zeiten Schlechte Zeiten Trad
VIIb Adlerfeder Trad
Rißkante Trad
Wir können auch anders Trad