Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} I Abendweg Trad
2
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} IV AV zum Ostpfeiler Trad
4
{SX} V AW plus Trad
5
{SX} VIIc Bauboom Trad
6
{SX} II Berg-Frei-Weg Trad
7
{SX} I Birkenweg Trad
8
{SX} IV Dazwischen Trad
9
{SX} I EV zum AW Trad
10
{SX} III EV zum Ostpfeiler Trad
11
12
{SX} VI Glasergrundwand Trad
13
{SX} II Humuspromenade Trad
14
{SX} VI Lauschgift Trad
15
{SX} II Linke AV zum AW Trad
17
18
{SX} IV Mairiß Trad
19
{SX} V Nordkante Trad
20
{SX} IV Nordostriß Trad
21
{SX} V Nordostwand Trad
22
{SX} II Ostpfeiler Trad
23
{SX} V Pfadfinder Trad
24
25
{SX} III Pfeilerweg Trad
26
{SX} V Rechte AV zum AW Trad
27
{SX} III Rechter Schartenriß Trad
28
{SX} V Schartenmitte Trad
29
{SX} IV Solowändl Trad
30
{SX} 3 Sprung Trad
31
{SX} II Südkante Trad
32
{SX} I Südostkamin Trad
33
{SX} III Südostwand Trad
34
{SX} IV Südostweg Trad
35
{SX} II Talkamin Trad
36
{SX} VI Talkante Trad
37
{SX} VI Verfeinerung Trad
38
{SX} III Verschneidung Trad
39
{SX} V Verteranenkante Trad
40
{SX} II Veteranenkamin Trad
41
{SX} V Veteranenkante Trad
42
{SX} IV Weibersache Trad
43
{SX} VIIb Zwirnsfaden Trad