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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
II
Trad
2 Ausstiegsvariante zum Talweg
VIIIa
Trad
3 AV zum Talweg (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
4 Denk nach, California! (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
5 Erbstück (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
6 Ergänzung
VIIc
Trad
7 Erwähnung
IXa
Trad
8 EV zur Sonnensuite
VIIIa
Trad
9 EV zur Talkante
VIIIb
Trad
10 Kalt und Heiß (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
11 Kurze Absatzkante
V
Trad
12 Lange Absatzkante
VIIa
Trad
13 Märchentürmerweg
VIIIa
Trad
14 Nachfeier
VIIc
Trad
15 Nachfeier direkt
VIIIc
Trad
16 Neuer Nordostweg
VIIIa
Trad
17 Nordostwand
VIIc
Trad
18 Nordostweg
V
Trad
19 Nordwestriß
VI
Trad
20 Nordwestriß (oU)

without support

VIIa
Trad
21 OPK Bergsteiger (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
22 Panoptikum (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
23 Rinnenvariante
VIIa
Trad
24 Rißspuren (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
25 Sonnensuite
VIIIa
Trad
26 Spreizweg
VI
Trad
27 Südkante
VIIIa
Trad
28 Südwestweg
VI
Trad
29 Talkante
VIIIb
Trad
30 Talweg
VIIIa
Trad
31 Verbindungsweg
VIIIb
Trad
32 Windweg
VIIb
Trad