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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Abendweg
V
Trad
2 Alter Weg
I
Trad
3 Aussichtsweg
II
Trad
4 EV zum Aussichtsweg
II
Trad
5 Feierabendstiege
IV
Trad
6 Freie Sicht
III
Trad
7 Gerader Weg
V
Trad
8 Johannes' Rinne
IV
Trad
9 Johannissprung
IV/4
Trad
10 Leichte Stiege
II
Trad
11 Neue Nordwand (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
12 Nordwand (RP)

red point

VIIa
Trad
13 Nordwestkamin
III
Trad
14 Nordwestkamin direkt
VIIa
Trad
15 Ostkante
VIIa
Trad
16 Pfeilerweg
III
Trad
17 Rechter Einstieg zur Stumpfen Kante
VIIa
Trad
18 Rechter Weg
II
Trad
19 Schnelle Wand
IV
Trad
20 Stumpfe Kante
VI
Trad
21 Südweg
I
Trad
22 Südwestriß
III
Trad
23 Talverschneidung
V
Trad
24 Talweg
IV
Trad
25 Tunnelvariante
I
Trad
26 Variante zum Pfeilerweg
V
Trad
27 Variante zur Nordwand
V
Trad
28 Weg am Rande
VIIa
Trad
29 Westweg
V
Trad
30 Familiensprung
III/2
Trad