A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Johannismauer 30 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.040039, 50.840740

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendweg VTrad
2 Alter Weg ITrad
3 Aussichtsweg IITrad
4 EV zum Aussichtsweg IITrad
5 Feierabendstiege IVTrad
6 Freie Sicht IIITrad
7 Gerader Weg VTrad
8 Johannes' Rinne IVTrad
9 Johannissprung IV/4Trad
10 Leichte Stiege IITrad
11 Neue Nordwand (RP)

red point

VIIcTrad
12 Nordwand (RP)

red point

VIIaTrad
13 Nordwestkamin IIITrad
14 Nordwestkamin direkt VIIaTrad
15 Ostkante VIIaTrad
16 Pfeilerweg IIITrad
17 Rechter Einstieg zur Stumpfen Kante VIIaTrad
18 Rechter Weg IITrad
19 Schnelle Wand IVTrad
20 Stumpfe Kante VITrad
21 Südweg ITrad
22 Südwestriß IIITrad
23 Talverschneidung VTrad
24 Talweg IVTrad
25 Tunnelvariante ITrad
26 Variante zum Pfeilerweg VTrad
27 Variante zur Nordwand VTrad
28 Weg am Rande VIIaTrad
29 Westweg VTrad
30 Familiensprung III/2Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Alter Weg Trad
Südweg Trad
Tunnelvariante Trad
II Aussichtsweg Trad
EV zum Aussichtsweg Trad
Leichte Stiege Trad
Rechter Weg Trad
III Freie Sicht Trad
Nordwestkamin Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
Südwestriß Trad
III/2 Familiensprung Trad
IV Feierabendstiege Trad
Johannes' Rinne Trad
Schnelle Wand Trad
Talweg Trad
IV/4 Johannissprung Trad
V Abendweg Trad
Gerader Weg Trad
Talverschneidung Trad
Variante zum Pfeilerweg Trad
Variante zur Nordwand Trad
Westweg Trad
VI Stumpfe Kante Trad
VIIa Nordwand (RP) Trad
Nordwestkamin direkt Trad
Ostkante Trad
Rechter Einstieg zur Stumpfen Kante Trad
Weg am Rande Trad
VIIc Neue Nordwand (RP) Trad