A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Johannismauer 30 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.040039, 50.840740

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendweg V Trad
2 Alter Weg I Trad
3 Aussichtsweg II Trad
4 EV zum Aussichtsweg II Trad
5 Feierabendstiege IV Trad
6 Freie Sicht III Trad
7 Gerader Weg V Trad
8 Johannes' Rinne IV Trad
9 Johannissprung IV 4 Trad
10 Leichte Stiege II Trad
11 Neue Nordwand (RP)

red point

VIIc Trad
12 Nordwand (RP)

red point

VIIa Trad
13 Nordwestkamin III Trad
14 Nordwestkamin direkt VIIa Trad
15 Ostkante VIIa Trad
16 Pfeilerweg III Trad
17 Rechter Einstieg zur Stumpfen Kante VIIa Trad
18 Rechter Weg II Trad
19 Schnelle Wand IV Trad
20 Stumpfe Kante VI Trad
21 Südweg I Trad
22 Südwestriß III Trad
23 Talverschneidung V Trad
24 Talweg IV Trad
25 Tunnelvariante I Trad
26 Variante zum Pfeilerweg V Trad
27 Variante zur Nordwand V Trad
28 Weg am Rande VIIa Trad
29 Westweg V Trad
30 Familiensprung III 2 Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Alter Weg Trad
Südweg Trad
Tunnelvariante Trad
II Aussichtsweg Trad
EV zum Aussichtsweg Trad
Leichte Stiege Trad
Rechter Weg Trad
III Freie Sicht Trad
Nordwestkamin Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
Südwestriß Trad
III/2 Familiensprung Trad
IV Feierabendstiege Trad
Johannes' Rinne Trad
Schnelle Wand Trad
Talweg Trad
IV/4 Johannissprung Trad
V Abendweg Trad
Gerader Weg Trad
Talverschneidung Trad
Variante zum Pfeilerweg Trad
Variante zur Nordwand Trad
Westweg Trad
VI Stumpfe Kante Trad
VIIa Nordwand (RP) Trad
Nordwestkamin direkt Trad
Ostkante Trad
Rechter Einstieg zur Stumpfen Kante Trad
Weg am Rande Trad
VIIc Neue Nordwand (RP) Trad