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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX V Abenddämmerung Trad
2
SX II Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VIIIb Dachvariante (RP) Trad

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5
SX IV Gamsspitzlerweg Trad
6
SX VIIIb Gelobtes Land Trad
7
SX VIIa Knochenwiese Trad
8
SX VIIIb Langes Leben Trad
9
SX V Neuer Nordriß Trad
10
SX V Nordostkante Trad
11
SX III Nordriß Trad
12
SX VI Nordwand Trad
13
SX III Nordwestweg Trad
14
SX VI Panzerknacker Trad
15
SX VIIc Rückenpanzer Trad
16
SX VIIc Schartenweg Trad
17
18
SX VIIb Schluchtwand Trad
19
SX III Sprossenwand Trad
20
SX VIIIc Sterbender Wald (RP) Trad

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21
SX VIIc Sturmvariante Trad
22
SX II Südostkante Trad
23
SX V Südriss Trad
24
SX VIIb Südwand Trad
25
SX IV Talweg Trad
26
SX Xc Turtelface (RP) Trad

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27

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29