A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Schildkrötenturm 29 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.047980, 50.838830

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abenddämmerung V Trad
2 Alter Weg II Trad
3 Dachvariante (RP)

red point

VIIIb Trad
4 Direkter Gamsspitzlerweg IV Trad
5 Gamsspitzlerweg IV Trad
6 Gelobtes Land VIIIb Trad
7 Knochenwiese VIIa Trad
8 Langes Leben VIIIb Trad
9 Neuer Nordriß V Trad
10 Nordostkante V Trad
11 Nordriß III Trad
12 Nordwand VI Trad
13 Nordwestweg III Trad
14 Panzerknacker VI Trad
15 Rückenpanzer VIIc Trad
16 Schartenweg VIIc Trad
17 Schildkrötensuppe VI Trad
18 Schluchtwand VIIb Trad
19 Sprossenwand III Trad
20 Sterbender Wald (RP)

red point

VIIIc Trad
21 Sturmvariante VIIc Trad
22 Südostkante II Trad
23 Südriss V Trad
24 Südwand VIIb Trad
25 Talweg IV Trad
26 Turtelface (RP)

red point

Xc Trad
27 Über die Schildkante (RP)

red point

VIIIb Trad
28 Variante zum Nordwestweg III Trad
29 Variante zum Talweg VI Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
Südostkante Trad
III Nordriß Trad
Nordwestweg Trad
Sprossenwand Trad
Variante zum Nordwestweg Trad
IV Direkter Gamsspitzlerweg Trad
Gamsspitzlerweg Trad
Talweg Trad
V Abenddämmerung Trad
Neuer Nordriß Trad
Nordostkante Trad
Südriss Trad
VI Nordwand Trad
Panzerknacker Trad
Schildkrötensuppe Trad
Variante zum Talweg Trad
VIIa Knochenwiese Trad
VIIb Schluchtwand Trad
Südwand Trad
VIIc Rückenpanzer Trad
Schartenweg Trad
Sturmvariante Trad
VIIIb Dachvariante (RP) Trad
Gelobtes Land Trad
Langes Leben Trad
Über die Schildkante (RP) Trad
VIIIc Sterbender Wald (RP) Trad
Xc Turtelface (RP) Trad