A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Schildkrötenturm 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.047980, 50.838830

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abenddämmerung VTrad
2 Alter Weg IITrad
3 Dachvariante (RP)

red point

VIIIbTrad
4 Direkter Gamsspitzlerweg IVTrad
5 Gamsspitzlerweg IVTrad
6 Gelobtes Land VIIIbTrad
7 Knochenwiese VIIaTrad
8 Langes Leben VIIIbTrad
9 Neuer Nordriß VTrad
10 Nordostkante VTrad
11 Nordriß IIITrad
12 Nordwand VITrad
13 Nordwestweg IIITrad
14 Panzerknacker VITrad
15 Rückenpanzer VIIcTrad
16 Schartenweg VIIcTrad
17 Schildkrötensuppe VITrad
18 Schluchtwand VIIbTrad
19 Sprossenwand IIITrad
20 Sterbender Wald (RP)

red point

VIIIcTrad
21 Sturmvariante VIIcTrad
22 Südostkante IITrad
23 Südriss VTrad
24 Südwand VIIbTrad
25 Talweg IVTrad
26 Turtelface (RP)

red point

XcTrad
27 Über die Schildkante (RP)

red point

VIIIbTrad
28 Variante zum Nordwestweg IIITrad
29 Variante zum Talweg VITrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
Südostkante Trad
III Nordriß Trad
Nordwestweg Trad
Sprossenwand Trad
Variante zum Nordwestweg Trad
IV Direkter Gamsspitzlerweg Trad
Gamsspitzlerweg Trad
Talweg Trad
V Abenddämmerung Trad
Neuer Nordriß Trad
Nordostkante Trad
Südriss Trad
VI Nordwand Trad
Panzerknacker Trad
Schildkrötensuppe Trad
Variante zum Talweg Trad
VIIa Knochenwiese Trad
VIIb Schluchtwand Trad
Südwand Trad
VIIc Rückenpanzer Trad
Schartenweg Trad
Sturmvariante Trad
VIIIb Dachvariante (RP) Trad
Gelobtes Land Trad
Langes Leben Trad
Über die Schildkante (RP) Trad
VIIIc Sterbender Wald (RP) Trad
Xc Turtelface (RP) Trad