Schweizermühlenturm Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Schweizermühlenturm 15 routes in Cliff



All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 14.043243, 50.846315

Access Issues

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at .

inherited from Sächsische Schweiz


You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Baumschulenkante VIIb Trad
3 Bergweg III Trad
4 Im Blickpunkt (RP)

red point

VIIIb Trad
5 Krippelvariante VI Trad
6 Nordostkante VIIb Trad
7 Nordwestverschneidung VI Trad
8 Schartenweg IV Trad
9 Schattiger Weg (RP)

red point

VIIb Trad
10 Südostkante VI Trad
11 Talweg VIIa Trad
12 Variante zum Alten Weg III Trad
13 Verbindungsvariante VIIb Trad
14 Weg der Hoffnung (RP)

red point

VIIIc Trad
15 Wo bleibt Forelle? (RP)

red point

VIIIc Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
III Bergweg Trad
Variante zum Alten Weg Trad
IV Schartenweg Trad
VI Krippelvariante Trad
Nordwestverschneidung Trad
Südostkante Trad
VIIa Talweg Trad
VIIb Baumschulenkante Trad
Nordostkante Trad
Schattiger Weg (RP) Trad
Verbindungsvariante Trad
VIIIb Im Blickpunkt (RP) Trad
VIIIc Weg der Hoffnung (RP) Trad
Wo bleibt Forelle? (RP) Trad