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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
III
Trad
2 Direkte Südwestwand
VIIa
Trad
3 Direkter Osterweg
VIIa
Trad
4 Geschmackssache
VIIc
Trad
5 Hyperion (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
6 Kronos
VIIIa
Trad
7 Linke Variante zur Ostkante
VIIb
Trad
8 Nordkante
V
Trad
9 Nordostwand
VIIa
Trad
10 Nordostweg
V
Trad
11 Nordwestrisse
VIIc
Trad
12 Osterweg
VIIa
Trad
13 Osterweg direkt
VIIa
Trad
14 Ostkante
VI
Trad
15 Ostverschneidung
II
Trad
16 Pfingstkante
VI
Trad
17 Rechte Variante zur Ostkante
VIIa
Trad
18 Reifweg
V
Trad
19 Südkante
VIIb
Trad
20 Südwestriß
V
Trad
21 Südwestwand
VIIa
Trad
22 Talweg
V
Trad
23 Talweg links
IV
Trad
24 Trennung der Variablen
VIIa
Trad
25 Variante zum AW
III
Trad
26 Variante zum Südwestriß
VIIa
Trad
27 Vermittlung
VIIc
Trad
28 Westkante
IV
Trad