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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} III Abendweg Trad
2
{SX} VIIIb Abschneider (RP) Trad

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3
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
4
{SX} IV berghaus Trad
5
{SX} V Blitzriß Trad
6

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7
{SX} VIIIa Doppelkinn Trad
8
{SX} I Dreckweg Trad
10
{SX} VIIc Encore (RP) Trad

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11
{SX} VIIc Feiertagswand (RP) Trad

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12
{SX} VIIa Flügelkante Trad
13
{SX} I Flügelweg Trad
14
{SX} III Gartenschlauch Trad
15
16
{SX} VIIIb Geradeaus (RP) Trad

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17
{SX} II Gestufter Weg Trad
18
{SX} III Grüner Kamin Trad
19
{SX} V Hausstaubmilbe Trad
20
{SX} V Herbststille Trad
21
{SX} II Hinterer Pfeilerweg Trad
22
{SX} IV Hoher Kamin Trad
23
{SX} VIIIb Immer der Nase nach Trad
24
25
{SX} I Klüftelweg Trad
26
{SX} IXb Knallbonbon Trad
27
{SX} IXa Leere Versprechungen Trad
28
{SX} III Linker Nischenriß Trad
29
{SX} VIIIc Linksabbieger Trad
30
{SX} IXb Luftikus Trad
31
{SX} VIIIb Mäckenschwarm Trad
32
{SX} V Michi Trad
33
{SX} IXb Nagelneuer Talweg Trad
34
{SX} VIIb Neuer Talweg Trad
35
{SX} II Nischenkamin Trad
36
{SX} V Nordostwand Trad
37
{SX} V Nordostweg Trad
38
{SX} VIIIa Nordwestriß Trad
39
{SX} V Osterkante Trad
40
{SX} V Ostwand Trad
41
{SX} VIIc Peacemaker Trad
42
{SX} VI Pech am Abend Trad
43
{SX} II Pfeilerweg Trad
44
{SX} IV Rechte Klüftelkante Trad
45
{SX} III Rechter Nischenriß Trad
46
{SX} VIIIb Regentrude Trad
47
{SX} VIIc Regenwand Trad
48
{SX} IV Schiefer Riß Trad
49
{SX} VIIb Siebenschläferweg Trad
50
{SX} Xa Spezialistendach Trad
51
{SX} III Staubfänger Trad
52
{SX} III Staubwedel Trad
53
{SX} VIIb Südkante (RP) Trad

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54
{SX} II Südostkamin Trad
55
{SX} IV Südostriß Trad
56
{SX} VIIIa Südwestkante (RP) Trad

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57
{SX} V Südwestwand Trad
58
{SX} IV Südwestweg Trad
59
{SX} V Talweg Trad
61
{SX} VIIc Vollständige Südkante Trad
62
{SX} IV Zickzackweg Trad