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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX III Abendweg Trad
2
SX VIIIb Abschneider (RP) Trad

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3
SX I Alter Weg Trad
4
SX IV berghaus Trad
5
SX V Blitzriß Trad
6

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7
SX VIIIa Doppelkinn Trad
8
SX I Dreckweg Trad
10
SX VIIc Encore (RP) Trad

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11
SX VIIc Feiertagswand (RP) Trad

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12
SX VIIa Flügelkante Trad
13
SX I Flügelweg Trad
14
SX III Gartenschlauch Trad
16
SX VIIIb Geradeaus (RP) Trad

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17
SX II Gestufter Weg Trad
18
SX III Grüner Kamin Trad
19
SX V Hausstaubmilbe Trad
20
SX V Herbststille Trad
21
22
SX IV Hoher Kamin Trad
23
SX VIIIb Immer der Nase nach Trad
25
SX I Klüftelweg Trad
26
SX IXb Knallbonbon Trad
27
28
SX III Linker Nischenriß Trad
29
SX VIIIc Linksabbieger Trad
30
SX IXb Luftikus Trad
31
SX VIIIb Mäckenschwarm Trad
32
SX V Michi Trad
33
SX IXb Nagelneuer Talweg Trad
34
SX VIIb Neuer Talweg Trad
35
SX II Nischenkamin Trad
36
SX V Nordostwand Trad
37
SX V Nordostweg Trad
38
SX VIIIa Nordwestriß Trad
39
SX V Osterkante Trad
40
SX V Ostwand Trad
41
SX VIIc Peacemaker Trad
42
SX VI Pech am Abend Trad
43
SX II Pfeilerweg Trad
45
46
SX VIIIb Regentrude Trad
47
SX VIIc Regenwand Trad
48
SX IV Schiefer Riß Trad
49
SX VIIb Siebenschläferweg Trad
50
SX Xa Spezialistendach Trad
51
SX III Staubfänger Trad
52
SX III Staubwedel Trad
53
SX VIIb Südkante (RP) Trad

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54
SX II Südostkamin Trad
55
SX IV Südostriß Trad
56
SX VIIIa Südwestkante (RP) Trad

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57
SX V Südwestwand Trad
58
SX IV Südwestweg Trad
59
SX V Talweg Trad
62
SX IV Zickzackweg Trad