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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Abendweg
III
Trad
2 Abschneider (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
3 Alter Weg
I
Trad
4 berghaus
IV
Trad
5 Blitzriß
V
Trad
6 Direkte Südwestwand (RP)

red point

VIIb
Trad
7 Doppelkinn
VIIIa
Trad
8 Dreckweg
I
Trad
9 Du solltest es wissen
VI
Trad
10 Encore (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
11 Feiertagswand (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
12 Flügelkante
VIIa
Trad
13 Flügelweg
I
Trad
14 Gartenschlauch
III
Trad
15 Gefährlicher Regenschirm
VIIIc
Trad
16 Geradeaus (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
17 Gestufter Weg
II
Trad
18 Grüner Kamin
III
Trad
19 Hausstaubmilbe
V
Trad
20 Herbststille
V
Trad
21 Hinterer Pfeilerweg
II
Trad
22 Hoher Kamin
IV
Trad
23 Immer der Nase nach
VIIIb
Trad
24 Irren ist menschlich
V
Trad
25 Klüftelweg
I
Trad
26 Knallbonbon
IXb
Trad
27 Leere Versprechungen
IXa
Trad
28 Linker Nischenriß
III
Trad
29 Linksabbieger
VIIIc
Trad
30 Luftikus
IXb
Trad
31 Mäckenschwarm
VIIIb
Trad
32 Michi
V
Trad
33 Nagelneuer Talweg
IXb
Trad
34 Neuer Talweg
VIIb
Trad
35 Nischenkamin
II
Trad
36 Nordostwand
V
Trad
37 Nordostweg
V
Trad
38 Nordwestriß
VIIIa
Trad
39 Osterkante
V
Trad
40 Ostwand
V
Trad
41 Peacemaker
VIIc
Trad
42 Pech am Abend
VI
Trad
43 Pfeilerweg
II
Trad
44 Rechte Klüftelkante
IV
Trad
45 Rechter Nischenriß
III
Trad
46 Regentrude
VIIIb
Trad
47 Regenwand
VIIc
Trad
48 Schiefer Riß
IV
Trad
49 Siebenschläferweg
VIIb
Trad
50 Spezialistendach
Xa
Trad
51 Staubfänger
III
Trad
52 Staubwedel
III
Trad
53 Südkante (RP)

red point

VIIb
Trad
54 Südostkamin
II
Trad
55 Südostriß
IV
Trad
56 Südwestkante (RP)

red point

VIIIa
Trad
57 Südwestwand
V
Trad
58 Südwestweg
IV
Trad
59 Talweg
V
Trad
60 Variante zum Blitzriß
V
Trad
61 Vollständige Südkante
VIIc
Trad
62 Zickzackweg
IV
Trad