A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Zerklüftete Wand 62 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.042682, 50.844453

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendweg {SX} III Trad
2 Abschneider (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIIb Trad
3 Alter Weg {SX} I Trad
4 berghaus {SX} IV Trad
5 Blitzriß {SX} V Trad
6 Direkte Südwestwand (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIb Trad
7 Doppelkinn {SX} VIIIa Trad
8 Dreckweg {SX} I Trad
9 Du solltest es wissen {SX} VI Trad
10 Encore (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIc Trad
11 Feiertagswand (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIc Trad
12 Flügelkante {SX} VIIa Trad
13 Flügelweg {SX} I Trad
14 Gartenschlauch {SX} III Trad
15 Gefährlicher Regenschirm {SX} VIIIc Trad
16 Geradeaus (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIIb Trad
17 Gestufter Weg {SX} II Trad
18 Grüner Kamin {SX} III Trad
19 Hausstaubmilbe {SX} V Trad
20 Herbststille {SX} V Trad
21 Hinterer Pfeilerweg {SX} II Trad
22 Hoher Kamin {SX} IV Trad
23 Immer der Nase nach {SX} VIIIb Trad
24 Irren ist menschlich {SX} V Trad
25 Klüftelweg {SX} I Trad
26 Knallbonbon {SX} IXb Trad
27 Leere Versprechungen {SX} IXa Trad
28 Linker Nischenriß {SX} III Trad
29 Linksabbieger {SX} VIIIc Trad
30 Luftikus {SX} IXb Trad
31 Mäckenschwarm {SX} VIIIb Trad
32 Michi {SX} V Trad
33 Nagelneuer Talweg {SX} IXb Trad
34 Neuer Talweg {SX} VIIb Trad
35 Nischenkamin {SX} II Trad
36 Nordostwand {SX} V Trad
37 Nordostweg {SX} V Trad
38 Nordwestriß {SX} VIIIa Trad
39 Osterkante {SX} V Trad
40 Ostwand {SX} V Trad
41 Peacemaker {SX} VIIc Trad
42 Pech am Abend {SX} VI Trad
43 Pfeilerweg {SX} II Trad
44 Rechte Klüftelkante {SX} IV Trad
45 Rechter Nischenriß {SX} III Trad
46 Regentrude {SX} VIIIb Trad
47 Regenwand {SX} VIIc Trad
48 Schiefer Riß {SX} IV Trad
49 Siebenschläferweg {SX} VIIb Trad
50 Spezialistendach {SX} Xa Trad
51 Staubfänger {SX} III Trad
52 Staubwedel {SX} III Trad
53 Südkante (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIb Trad
54 Südostkamin {SX} II Trad
55 Südostriß {SX} IV Trad
56 Südwestkante (RP)

red point

{SX} VIIIa Trad
57 Südwestwand {SX} V Trad
58 Südwestweg {SX} IV Trad
59 Talweg {SX} V Trad
60 Variante zum Blitzriß {SX} V Trad
61 Vollständige Südkante {SX} VIIc Trad
62 Zickzackweg {SX} IV Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Alter Weg Trad
Dreckweg Trad
Flügelweg Trad
Klüftelweg Trad
II Gestufter Weg Trad
Hinterer Pfeilerweg Trad
Nischenkamin Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
Südostkamin Trad
III Abendweg Trad
Gartenschlauch Trad
Grüner Kamin Trad
Linker Nischenriß Trad
Rechter Nischenriß Trad
Staubfänger Trad
Staubwedel Trad
IV Hoher Kamin Trad
Rechte Klüftelkante Trad
Schiefer Riß Trad
Südostriß Trad
Südwestweg Trad
Zickzackweg Trad
berghaus Trad
V Blitzriß Trad
Hausstaubmilbe Trad
Herbststille Trad
Irren ist menschlich Trad
Michi Trad
Nordostwand Trad
Nordostweg Trad
Osterkante Trad
Ostwand Trad
Südwestwand Trad
Talweg Trad
Variante zum Blitzriß Trad
VI Du solltest es wissen Trad
Pech am Abend Trad
VIIa Flügelkante Trad
VIIb Direkte Südwestwand (RP) Trad
Neuer Talweg Trad
Siebenschläferweg Trad
Südkante (RP) Trad
VIIc Encore (RP) Trad
Feiertagswand (RP) Trad
Peacemaker Trad
Regenwand Trad
Vollständige Südkante Trad
VIIIa Doppelkinn Trad
Nordwestriß Trad
Südwestkante (RP) Trad
VIIIb Abschneider (RP) Trad
Geradeaus (RP) Trad
Immer der Nase nach Trad
Mäckenschwarm Trad
Regentrude Trad
VIIIc Gefährlicher Regenschirm Trad
Linksabbieger Trad
IXa Leere Versprechungen Trad
IXb Knallbonbon Trad
Luftikus Trad
Nagelneuer Talweg Trad
Xa Spezialistendach Trad