A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Zerklüftete Wand 62 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.042682, 50.844453

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendweg IIITrad
2 Abschneider (RP)

red point

VIIIbTrad
3 Alter Weg ITrad
4 berghaus IVTrad
5 Blitzriß VTrad
6 Direkte Südwestwand (RP)

red point

VIIbTrad
7 Doppelkinn VIIIaTrad
8 Dreckweg ITrad
9 Du solltest es wissen VITrad
10 Encore (RP)

red point

VIIcTrad
11 Feiertagswand (RP)

red point

VIIcTrad
12 Flügelkante VIIaTrad
13 Flügelweg ITrad
14 Gartenschlauch IIITrad
15 Gefährlicher Regenschirm VIIIcTrad
16 Geradeaus (RP)

red point

VIIIbTrad
17 Gestufter Weg IITrad
18 Grüner Kamin IIITrad
19 Hausstaubmilbe VTrad
20 Herbststille VTrad
21 Hinterer Pfeilerweg IITrad
22 Hoher Kamin IVTrad
23 Immer der Nase nach VIIIbTrad
24 Irren ist menschlich VTrad
25 Klüftelweg ITrad
26 Knallbonbon IXbTrad
27 Leere Versprechungen IXaTrad
28 Linker Nischenriß IIITrad
29 Linksabbieger VIIIcTrad
30 Luftikus IXbTrad
31 Mäckenschwarm VIIIbTrad
32 Michi VTrad
33 Nagelneuer Talweg IXbTrad
34 Neuer Talweg VIIbTrad
35 Nischenkamin IITrad
36 Nordostwand VTrad
37 Nordostweg VTrad
38 Nordwestriß VIIIaTrad
39 Osterkante VTrad
40 Ostwand VTrad
41 Peacemaker VIIcTrad
42 Pech am Abend VITrad
43 Pfeilerweg IITrad
44 Rechte Klüftelkante IVTrad
45 Rechter Nischenriß IIITrad
46 Regentrude VIIIbTrad
47 Regenwand VIIcTrad
48 Schiefer Riß IVTrad
49 Siebenschläferweg VIIbTrad
50 Spezialistendach XaTrad
51 Staubfänger IIITrad
52 Staubwedel IIITrad
53 Südkante (RP)

red point

VIIbTrad
54 Südostkamin IITrad
55 Südostriß IVTrad
56 Südwestkante (RP)

red point

VIIIaTrad
57 Südwestwand VTrad
58 Südwestweg IVTrad
59 Talweg VTrad
60 Variante zum Blitzriß VTrad
61 Vollständige Südkante VIIcTrad
62 Zickzackweg IVTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
I Alter Weg Trad
Dreckweg Trad
Flügelweg Trad
Klüftelweg Trad
II Gestufter Weg Trad
Hinterer Pfeilerweg Trad
Nischenkamin Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
Südostkamin Trad
III Abendweg Trad
Gartenschlauch Trad
Grüner Kamin Trad
Linker Nischenriß Trad
Rechter Nischenriß Trad
Staubfänger Trad
Staubwedel Trad
IV Hoher Kamin Trad
Rechte Klüftelkante Trad
Schiefer Riß Trad
Südostriß Trad
Südwestweg Trad
Zickzackweg Trad
berghaus Trad
V Blitzriß Trad
Hausstaubmilbe Trad
Herbststille Trad
Irren ist menschlich Trad
Michi Trad
Nordostwand Trad
Nordostweg Trad
Osterkante Trad
Ostwand Trad
Südwestwand Trad
Talweg Trad
Variante zum Blitzriß Trad
VI Du solltest es wissen Trad
Pech am Abend Trad
VIIa Flügelkante Trad
VIIb Direkte Südwestwand (RP) Trad
Neuer Talweg Trad
Siebenschläferweg Trad
Südkante (RP) Trad
VIIc Encore (RP) Trad
Feiertagswand (RP) Trad
Peacemaker Trad
Regenwand Trad
Vollständige Südkante Trad
VIIIa Doppelkinn Trad
Nordwestriß Trad
Südwestkante (RP) Trad
VIIIb Abschneider (RP) Trad
Geradeaus (RP) Trad
Immer der Nase nach Trad
Mäckenschwarm Trad
Regentrude Trad
VIIIc Gefährlicher Regenschirm Trad
Linksabbieger Trad
IXa Leere Versprechungen Trad
IXb Knallbonbon Trad
Luftikus Trad
Nagelneuer Talweg Trad
Xa Spezialistendach Trad