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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Waldzahn Cliff All Trad 100
2Kleine Zinne Cliff All Trad 150
3Große Zinne Cliff All Trad 220
4Südwestliche Zinne Cliff All Trad 160
5Pagode Cliff All Trad 120
6Glatte Keule Cliff All Trad 131
7Mäuseturm Cliff All Trad 110
8Krallenturm Cliff All Trad 120
9Glasergrundwand Cliff All Trad 430
10Glasergrundnadel Cliff All Trad 190
11Glasergrundwarte Cliff All Trad 250
12Uhustein Cliff All Trad 110
13Wilde Zacke Cliff All Trad 160
14Glasergrundscheibe Cliff All Trad 191
15Glasergrundwächter Cliff All Trad 180
16Lochsteinwächter Cliff All Trad 110
17Totenkopf Cliff All Trad 171
18Lochstein Cliff All Trad 90
19Waldwächter Cliff All Trad 170
20Adlerstein Cliff All Trad 110
21Unbenannter Turm Cliff All Trad 100
22Schöne Nadel Cliff All Trad 160
23Himmelfahrtsturm Cliff All Trad 150
24Semperhexe Cliff All Trad 150
25Lausbub Cliff All Trad 120
26Bär Cliff All Trad 110
27Wigwam Cliff All Trad 310
28Horzelbub Cliff All Trad 70
29Wormsbergwächter Cliff All Trad 60
30Glasergrundspitze Cliff All Trad 40
31Schaftwaldturm Cliff All Trad 70
32Nadel im Abseits Cliff All Trad 90