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Spannagelturm - Verlassene Wand 713 routes in Area

  • Avg. Height: 13m
  • Style: Mostly Trad
  • Ascents: 21

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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Areas

Map Name Style Climbs Ascents Height Grade Band Topos
1Juliturm Cliff All Trad 71
2Waldturm Cliff All Trad 81
3Stumpfer Turm Cliff All Trad 211
4Stumpfe Keule Cliff All Trad 170
5Stumpfer Kegel Cliff All Trad 150
6Fledermausturm Cliff All Trad 150
7Prometheus Cliff All Trad 190
8Siebenschläferturm Cliff All Trad 90
9Siebenschläferkeule Cliff All Trad 90
10Waldschratt Cliff All Trad 160
11Grauer Turm Cliff All Trad 112
12Felix Cliff All Trad 151
13Felicitas Cliff All Trad 222
14Herbstspitze Cliff All Trad 121
15Grüne Zinne Cliff All Trad 100
16Spannagelturm Cliff All Trad 222
17Herbstturm Cliff All Trad 72
18Rabenturm Cliff All Trad 191
19Kleiner Eislochturm Cliff All Trad 150
20Großer Eislochturm Cliff All Trad 310
21Papusspitze Cliff All Trad 70
22Bielazinne Cliff All Trad 221
23Osterkegel Cliff All Trad 251
24Troikapferd Cliff All Trad 270
25Waldscheibe Cliff All Trad 170
26Turm am Wege Cliff All Trad 120
27Unke Cliff Mostly Trad 16012m
28Pfingstturm Cliff All Trad 120
29Fichtenkegel Cliff All Trad 80
30Jupiterturm Cliff All Trad 5010m
31Bonzenzahn Cliff All Trad 90
32Bonze Cliff All Trad 23016m
33Verlassene Wand Cliff All Trad 671
34Wolfskopf Cliff All Trad 12020m
35Felsensportnadel Cliff All Trad 13013m
36Versteckte Wand Cliff All Trad 15014m
37Verlassene Spitze Cliff All Trad 11015m
38Waldkegel Cliff All Trad 100
39Birkenturm Cliff All Trad 7010m
40Großer Glücksturm Cliff All Trad 13018m
41Würfel Cliff All Trad 14010m
42Kleiner Glücksturm Cliff All Trad 91
43Hilfssheriff Cliff All Trad 15212m
44Sheriff Cliff All Trad 70
45Sultan Cliff All Trad 80
46Morscher Kopf Cliff All Trad 81
47Vergessene Spitze Cliff All Trad 90
48Kalif Cliff All Trad 120