Spannagelturm - Verlassene Wand
713 routes
in Area
- Avg. Height: 13m
- Style: Mostly Trad
- Ascents: 21
- Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
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Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .
- Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
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You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
Areas
| Name | Style | Climbs | Ascents | Height | Grade Band | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Juliturm Cliff | All Trad | 7 | 1 | |||
| 2 | Waldturm Cliff | All Trad | 8 | 1 | |||
| 3 | Stumpfer Turm Cliff | All Trad | 21 | 1 | |||
| 4 | Stumpfe Keule Cliff | All Trad | 17 | 0 | |||
| 5 | Stumpfer Kegel Cliff | All Trad | 15 | 0 | |||
| 6 | Fledermausturm Cliff | All Trad | 15 | 0 | |||
| 7 | Prometheus Cliff | All Trad | 19 | 0 | |||
| 8 | Siebenschläferturm Cliff | All Trad | 9 | 0 | |||
| 9 | Siebenschläferkeule Cliff | All Trad | 9 | 0 | |||
| 10 | Waldschratt Cliff | All Trad | 16 | 0 | |||
| 11 | Grauer Turm Cliff | All Trad | 11 | 2 | |||
| 12 | Felix Cliff | All Trad | 15 | 1 | |||
| 13 | Felicitas Cliff | All Trad | 22 | 2 | |||
| 14 | Herbstspitze Cliff | All Trad | 12 | 1 | |||
| 15 | Grüne Zinne Cliff | All Trad | 10 | 0 | |||
| 16 | Spannagelturm Cliff | All Trad | 22 | 2 | |||
| 17 | Herbstturm Cliff | All Trad | 7 | 2 | |||
| 18 | Rabenturm Cliff | All Trad | 19 | 1 | |||
| 19 | Kleiner Eislochturm Cliff | All Trad | 15 | 0 | |||
| 20 | Großer Eislochturm Cliff | All Trad | 31 | 0 | |||
| 21 | Papusspitze Cliff | All Trad | 7 | 0 | |||
| 22 | Bielazinne Cliff | All Trad | 22 | 1 | |||
| 23 | Osterkegel Cliff | All Trad | 25 | 1 | |||
| 24 | Troikapferd Cliff | All Trad | 27 | 0 | |||
| 25 | Waldscheibe Cliff | All Trad | 17 | 0 | |||
| 26 | Turm am Wege Cliff | All Trad | 12 | 0 | |||
| 27 | Unke Cliff | Mostly Trad | 16 | 0 | 12m | ||
| 28 | Pfingstturm Cliff | All Trad | 12 | 0 | |||
| 29 | Fichtenkegel Cliff | All Trad | 8 | 0 | |||
| 30 | Jupiterturm Cliff | All Trad | 5 | 0 | 10m | ||
| 31 | Bonzenzahn Cliff | All Trad | 9 | 0 | |||
| 32 | Bonze Cliff | All Trad | 23 | 0 | 16m | ||
| 33 | Verlassene Wand Cliff | All Trad | 67 | 1 | |||
| 34 | Wolfskopf Cliff | All Trad | 12 | 0 | 20m | ||
| 35 | Felsensportnadel Cliff | All Trad | 13 | 0 | 13m | ||
| 36 | Versteckte Wand Cliff | All Trad | 15 | 0 | 14m | ||
| 37 | Verlassene Spitze Cliff | All Trad | 11 | 0 | 15m | ||
| 38 | Waldkegel Cliff | All Trad | 10 | 0 | |||
| 39 | Birkenturm Cliff | All Trad | 7 | 0 | 10m | ||
| 40 | Großer Glücksturm Cliff | All Trad | 13 | 0 | 18m | ||
| 41 | Würfel Cliff | All Trad | 14 | 0 | 10m | ||
| 42 | Kleiner Glücksturm Cliff | All Trad | 9 | 1 | |||
| 43 | Hilfssheriff Cliff | All Trad | 15 | 2 | 12m | ||
| 44 | Sheriff Cliff | All Trad | 7 | 0 | |||
| 45 | Sultan Cliff | All Trad | 8 | 0 | |||
| 46 | Morscher Kopf Cliff | All Trad | 8 | 1 | |||
| 47 | Vergessene Spitze Cliff | All Trad | 9 | 0 | |||
| 48 | Kalif Cliff | All Trad | 12 | 0 |
