A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Table of contents

1. Berken-von-der-Duba-Wacht 34 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.104595, 50.970354

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 Direkter Westwandtrip VIIIc Trad
3 Gefundenes Fressen VIIIb Trad
4 Im Sonnenschein VIIIc Trad
5 Kaltes Licht VIIIb Trad
6 Kein Zuckerlecken VIIIc Trad
7 Kompott VIIb Trad
8 Konfirmandenstunde VIIIc Trad
9 Konfirmantenstunde VIIIc Trad
10 Kurzes Problem IXa Trad
11 Langes Problem IXb Trad
12 Mitsommertour (RP)

red point

VIIIb Trad
13 Nordostriß V Trad
14 Norostriß V Trad
15 Norostvariante zum AW VIIb Trad
16 Null Problemo IXb Trad
17 Parallele IXa Trad
18 Selbstständiger Ausstieg zum AW VIIIa Trad
19 Sommerweg VI Trad
20 Sprung 2 Trad
21 Südkante VIIb Trad
22 Südweg IV Trad
23 Südwestriß VIIa Trad
24 Südwestwand VIIc Trad
25 Talkante VIIc Trad
26 Tunnelriß VI Trad
27 übers Dach IXa Trad
28 Vorbeimarsch VIIIa Trad
29 Westfront IXb Trad
30 Westpfeiler VIIIc Trad
31 Westverschneidung VIIa Trad
32 Westwandtrip VIIIb Trad
33 Westwind Xa Trad
34 Zuckervariante VIIc Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
IV Südweg Trad
V Nordostriß Trad
Norostriß Trad
VI Sommerweg Trad
Tunnelriß Trad
VIIa Südwestriß Trad
Westverschneidung Trad
VIIb Kompott Trad
Norostvariante zum AW Trad
Südkante Trad
VIIc Südwestwand Trad
Talkante Trad
Zuckervariante Trad
VIIIa Selbstständiger Ausstieg zum AW Trad
Vorbeimarsch Trad
VIIIb Gefundenes Fressen Trad
Kaltes Licht Trad
Mitsommertour (RP) Trad
Westwandtrip Trad
VIIIc Direkter Westwandtrip Trad
Im Sonnenschein Trad
Kein Zuckerlecken Trad
Konfirmandenstunde Trad
Konfirmantenstunde Trad
Westpfeiler Trad
IXa Kurzes Problem Trad
Parallele Trad
übers Dach Trad
IXb Langes Problem Trad
Null Problemo Trad
Westfront Trad
Xa Westwind Trad
2 Sprung Trad