A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Berken-von-der-Duba-Wacht 34 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.104595, 50.970354

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IITrad
2 Direkter Westwandtrip VIIIcTrad
3 Gefundenes Fressen VIIIbTrad
4 Im Sonnenschein VIIIcTrad
5 Kaltes Licht VIIIbTrad
6 Kein Zuckerlecken VIIIcTrad
7 Kompott VIIbTrad
8 Konfirmandenstunde VIIIcTrad
9 Konfirmantenstunde VIIIcTrad
10 Kurzes Problem IXaTrad
11 Langes Problem IXbTrad
12 Mitsommertour (RP)

red point

13 Nordostriß VTrad
14 Norostriß VTrad
15 Norostvariante zum AW VIIbTrad
16 Null Problemo IXbTrad
17 Parallele IXaTrad
18 Selbstständiger Ausstieg zum AW VIIIaTrad
19 Sommerweg VITrad
20 Sprung 2Trad
21 Südkante VIIbTrad
22 Südweg IVTrad
23 Südwestriß VIIaTrad
24 Südwestwand VIIcTrad
25 Talkante VIIcTrad
26 Tunnelriß VITrad
27 übers Dach IXaTrad
28 Vorbeimarsch VIIIaTrad
29 Westfront IXbTrad
30 Westpfeiler VIIIcTrad
31 Westverschneidung VIIaTrad
32 Westwandtrip VIIIbTrad
33 Westwind XaTrad
34 Zuckervariante VIIcTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
IV Südweg Trad
V Nordostriß Trad
Norostriß Trad
VI Sommerweg Trad
Tunnelriß Trad
VIIa Südwestriß Trad
Westverschneidung Trad
VIIb Kompott Trad
Norostvariante zum AW Trad
Südkante Trad
VIIc Südwestwand Trad
Talkante Trad
Zuckervariante Trad
VIIIa Selbstständiger Ausstieg zum AW Trad
Vorbeimarsch Trad
VIIIb Gefundenes Fressen Trad
Kaltes Licht Trad
Mitsommertour (RP) Trad
Westwandtrip Trad
VIIIc Direkter Westwandtrip Trad
Im Sonnenschein Trad
Kein Zuckerlecken Trad
Konfirmandenstunde Trad
Konfirmantenstunde Trad
Westpfeiler Trad
IXa Kurzes Problem Trad
Parallele Trad
übers Dach Trad
IXb Langes Problem Trad
Null Problemo Trad
Westfront Trad
Xa Westwind Trad
2 Sprung Trad