Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Afrika
VIIc
Trad
2 Afrika links
VIIIa
Trad
3 Afrikanische Begegnung
Xa
Trad
4 Alter Weg
II
Trad
5 Am Schwanz
VIIIa
Trad
6 Anliegendes Ohr (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
7 Banane
VIIc
Trad
8 Birkenkamin
III
Trad
9 Breitseite
IXc
Trad
10 Deutscher Wald
VIIIc
Trad
11 Dicke Haut
VIIIb
Trad
12 Direkte Südwand
VIIIa
Trad
13 Dreckweg
VIIa
Trad
14 Dressur
IV
Trad
15 Eingang
III
Trad
16 Elefantenschlucht
VIIIb
Trad
17 Fernweh (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
18 Fliegender Elefant
Xc
Trad
19 Flower Power
IXc
Trad
20 Ganesha
Xb
Trad
21 Gassi
II
Trad
22 Herdentrieb (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
23 Im Zoo unter Affen
IXa
Trad
24 Kenia
IXc
Trad
25 Kleine Schluchtwand
VIIIb
Trad
26 Kluftkamin
I
Trad
27 Kurzurlaub
VIIIc
Trad
28 Linker Kammerkamin
II
Trad
29 Linker Stoßzahn
VIIa
Trad
30 Mescalin
VIIIb
Trad
31 Mittelriß (Rüssel)
VI
Trad
32 MuchaTscha
VIIIc
Trad
33 Nachtwache
II
Trad
34 Nashornkluft
IV
Trad
35 Nordverschneidung
IV
Trad
36 Oase
VIIIb
Trad
37 Ostpfeiler
VIIIb
Trad
38 Ottifant
VIIc
Trad
39 Quo vadis?
VIIIc
Trad
40 Rechter Kammerkamin
II
Trad
41 Rechter Stoßzahn
VIIb
Trad
42 Ruck, zuck!
VIIIc
Trad
43 Rüssel
VI
Trad
44 Safari
VIIb
Trad
45 Savanne
VIIIa
Trad
46 Schartenkamin
II
Trad
47 Segelohr im Regenwald (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
48 Südkante
VIIc
Trad
49 Südwand
VIIIb
Trad
50 Südwestpfeiler
IXa
Trad
51 Süwand
VIIIb
Trad
52 Tierparkgeschichten
IXa
Trad
53 Trompetenstoß
VIIc
Trad
54 über den Elefantenarsch
IXb
Trad
55 übergangsweg
IV
Trad
56 Variante zum Anliegenden Ohr
VIIIc
Trad
57 Variante zum Gassi
III
Trad
58 Variante zur Nashornkluft
IV
Trad
59 Variante zur Nordverschneidung
V
Trad
60 Verlängerter Kurzurlaub
VIIIc
Trad
61 Wurzelrinne
III
Trad
62 Zwischen den Dickhäutern
VIIa
Trad