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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIc Afrika Trad
2
{SX} VIIIa Afrika links Trad
4
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
5
{SX} VIIIa Am Schwanz Trad
6
{SX} VIIIc Anliegendes Ohr (RP) Trad

red point

7
{SX} VIIc Banane Trad
8
{SX} III Birkenkamin Trad
9
{SX} IXc Breitseite Trad
10
{SX} VIIIc Deutscher Wald Trad
11
{SX} VIIIb Dicke Haut Trad
12
{SX} VIIIa Direkte Südwand Trad
13
{SX} VIIa Dreckweg Trad
14
{SX} IV Dressur Trad
15
{SX} III Eingang Trad
16
{SX} VIIIb Elefantenschlucht Trad
17
{SX} IXb Fernweh (RP) Trad

red point

18
{SX} Xc Fliegender Elefant Trad
19
{SX} IXc Flower Power Trad
20
{SX} Xb Ganesha Trad
21
{SX} II Gassi Trad
22
{SX} VIIIc Herdentrieb (RP) Trad

red point

23
{SX} IXa Im Zoo unter Affen Trad
24
{SX} IXc Kenia Trad
25
{SX} VIIIb Kleine Schluchtwand Trad
26
{SX} I Kluftkamin Trad
27
{SX} VIIIc Kurzurlaub Trad
28
{SX} II Linker Kammerkamin Trad
29
{SX} VIIa Linker Stoßzahn Trad
30
{SX} VIIIb Mescalin Trad
31
{SX} VI Mittelriß (Rüssel) Trad
32
{SX} VIIIc MuchaTscha Trad
33
{SX} II Nachtwache Trad
34
{SX} IV Nashornkluft Trad
35
{SX} IV Nordverschneidung Trad
36
{SX} VIIIb Oase Trad
37
{SX} VIIIb Ostpfeiler Trad
38
{SX} VIIc Ottifant Trad
39
{SX} VIIIc Quo vadis? Trad
40
{SX} II Rechter Kammerkamin Trad
41
{SX} VIIb Rechter Stoßzahn Trad
42
{SX} VIIIc Ruck, zuck! Trad
43
{SX} VI Rüssel Trad
44
{SX} VIIb Safari Trad
45
{SX} VIIIa Savanne Trad
46
{SX} II Schartenkamin Trad
47

red point

48
{SX} VIIc Südkante Trad
49
{SX} VIIIb Südwand Trad
50
{SX} IXa Südwestpfeiler Trad
51
{SX} VIIIb Süwand Trad
52
{SX} IXa Tierparkgeschichten Trad
53
{SX} VIIc Trompetenstoß Trad
55
{SX} IV übergangsweg Trad
57
{SX} III Variante zum Gassi Trad
60
{SX} VIIIc Verlängerter Kurzurlaub Trad
61
{SX} III Wurzelrinne Trad
62