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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIc Afrika Trad
2
SX VIIIa Afrika links Trad
4
SX II Alter Weg Trad
5
SX VIIIa Am Schwanz Trad
6
SX VIIIc Anliegendes Ohr (RP) Trad

red point

7
SX VIIc Banane Trad
8
SX III Birkenkamin Trad
9
SX IXc Breitseite Trad
10
SX VIIIc Deutscher Wald Trad
11
SX VIIIb Dicke Haut Trad
12
SX VIIIa Direkte Südwand Trad
13
SX VIIa Dreckweg Trad
14
SX IV Dressur Trad
15
SX III Eingang Trad
16
SX VIIIb Elefantenschlucht Trad
17
SX IXb Fernweh (RP) Trad

red point

18
19
SX IXc Flower Power Trad
20
SX Xb Ganesha Trad
21
SX II Gassi Trad
22
SX VIIIc Herdentrieb (RP) Trad

red point

23
SX IXa Im Zoo unter Affen Trad
24
SX IXc Kenia Trad
25
SX VIIIb Kleine Schluchtwand Trad
26
SX I Kluftkamin Trad
27
SX VIIIc Kurzurlaub Trad
28
29
SX VIIa Linker Stoßzahn Trad
30
SX VIIIb Mescalin Trad
32
SX VIIIc MuchaTscha Trad
33
SX II Nachtwache Trad
34
SX IV Nashornkluft Trad
35
SX IV Nordverschneidung Trad
36
SX VIIIb Oase Trad
37
SX VIIIb Ostpfeiler Trad
38
SX VIIc Ottifant Trad
39
SX VIIIc Quo vadis? Trad
40
41
SX VIIb Rechter Stoßzahn Trad
42
SX VIIIc Ruck, zuck! Trad
43
SX VI Rüssel Trad
44
SX VIIb Safari Trad
45
SX VIIIa Savanne Trad
46
SX II Schartenkamin Trad
47

red point

48
SX VIIc Südkante Trad
49
SX VIIIb Südwand Trad
50
SX IXa Südwestpfeiler Trad
51
SX VIIIb Süwand Trad
52
53
SX VIIc Trompetenstoß Trad
55
SX IV übergangsweg Trad
57
SX III Variante zum Gassi Trad
61
SX III Wurzelrinne Trad