A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.

You must keep this warning with the guide.

For more information refer to our Usage policy

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Gespaltene Zinne 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.109584, 50.965151

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendweg VIIIcTrad
2 Abstiegsgespenst IVTrad
3 Aggression XaTrad
4 Alter Weg IVTrad
5 Altersbeschwerden VTrad
6 Bergweg IVTrad
7 Direkte Westwand VIIIbTrad
8 Griffiger Riß VITrad
9 Herzenssache VIIcTrad
10 Neue Westwand VIIIbTrad
11 Nordwestkante VITrad
12 Östlicher Schartenweg IVTrad
13 Ostweg IIITrad
14 Pfeilerchen VIIIbTrad
15 Pfeilerweg VTrad
16 Pfeilerweg (oU)

without support

VIIbTrad
17 Puzzle VIIaTrad
18 Schrittmacher VIIcTrad
19 Stine IXaTrad
20 Südostpfeiler VIIIcTrad
21 Südriß IVTrad
22 Südwestkante VIIcTrad
23 Talweg VTrad
24 Variante zum AW IVTrad
25 Vorbauriß VITrad
26 Waldeslust VIIIbTrad
27 Westkamin IIITrad
28 Westlicher Schartenweg IVTrad
29 Westwand VIIbTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Ostweg Trad
Westkamin Trad
IV Abstiegsgespenst Trad
Alter Weg Trad
Bergweg Trad
Südriß Trad
Variante zum AW Trad
Westlicher Schartenweg Trad
Östlicher Schartenweg Trad
V Altersbeschwerden Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
Talweg Trad
VI Griffiger Riß Trad
Nordwestkante Trad
Vorbauriß Trad
VIIa Puzzle Trad
VIIb Pfeilerweg (oU) Trad
Westwand Trad
VIIc Herzenssache Trad
Schrittmacher Trad
Südwestkante Trad
VIIIb Direkte Westwand Trad
Neue Westwand Trad
Pfeilerchen Trad
Waldeslust Trad
VIIIc Abendweg Trad
Südostpfeiler Trad
IXa Stine Trad
Xa Aggression Trad