A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Gespaltene Zinne 29 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.109584, 50.965151

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abendweg VIIIc Trad
2 Abstiegsgespenst IV Trad
3 Aggression Xa Trad
4 Alter Weg IV Trad
5 Altersbeschwerden V Trad
6 Bergweg IV Trad
7 Direkte Westwand VIIIb Trad
8 Griffiger Riß VI Trad
9 Herzenssache VIIc Trad
10 Neue Westwand VIIIb Trad
11 Nordwestkante VI Trad
12 Östlicher Schartenweg IV Trad
13 Ostweg III Trad
14 Pfeilerchen VIIIb Trad
15 Pfeilerweg V Trad
16 Pfeilerweg (oU)

without support

VIIb Trad
17 Puzzle VIIa Trad
18 Schrittmacher VIIc Trad
19 Stine IXa Trad
20 Südostpfeiler VIIIc Trad
21 Südriß IV Trad
22 Südwestkante VIIc Trad
23 Talweg V Trad
24 Variante zum AW IV Trad
25 Vorbauriß VI Trad
26 Waldeslust VIIIb Trad
27 Westkamin III Trad
28 Westlicher Schartenweg IV Trad
29 Westwand VIIb Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Ostweg Trad
Westkamin Trad
IV Abstiegsgespenst Trad
Alter Weg Trad
Bergweg Trad
Südriß Trad
Variante zum AW Trad
Westlicher Schartenweg Trad
Östlicher Schartenweg Trad
V Altersbeschwerden Trad
Pfeilerweg Trad
Talweg Trad
VI Griffiger Riß Trad
Nordwestkante Trad
Vorbauriß Trad
VIIa Puzzle Trad
VIIb Pfeilerweg (oU) Trad
Westwand Trad
VIIc Herzenssache Trad
Schrittmacher Trad
Südwestkante Trad
VIIIb Direkte Westwand Trad
Neue Westwand Trad
Pfeilerchen Trad
Waldeslust Trad
VIIIc Abendweg Trad
Südostpfeiler Trad
IXa Stine Trad
Xa Aggression Trad