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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
IXb Alptraum Trad
2
IV Alter Weg Trad
3

without support

4
XIIb Beginners Mind Trad
5
VIIa Bergweg Trad
6
Xa Blutige Spur Trad
7
IXc Burgwand Trad
8
IXc Christls Weg Trad
9
VIIIc DA zum Südweg Trad
10
VIIIb Direkte Nordwand Trad
12
IXa Fahrstuhl Trad
13
IXa Fast am Ende Trad
14
15

without support

16
Xa Hades Trad
17
19
XIa Im 7.Himmel Trad
20
IXb Kindertraum Trad
21
XIb Kosmopolit Trad
25
VIIIc Linksweg Trad
26
VIIIb Mädchenvariante Trad
27
28
Xa Marble flash Trad
29
XIa Metamorphose Trad
30
VIIIa Micromega Trad
31
IXc Mikrokosmos Trad
32
33
34
VIIc Nordwand Trad
35
VIIIa Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

36
VIIIc Nordwestkante Trad
37
VIIa Ostweg Trad
38
Xa Pulsader Trad
39
Xa Rauher Wind Trad
40
IXb Rechtsweg Trad
41
IXb Schlangenader Trad
43
VIIIc Sexter Trad
44
Xa Skarabäus Trad
45

red point

46
Xa Stirnschlag Trad
47
VIIIa Südkante Trad
48
VI Südostweg Trad
49
VIIIa Südweg Trad
50
VIIb Südwestweg Trad
52
55
IXc Turbulenz (RP) Trad

red point

56
XIIa Vairagya Trad
58
IXa Verdon (RP) Trad

red point

59
IXc Wasserstreifen Trad
60
Xc Wechselbalg Trad
61
IXc Weiße Wolke Trad
63
Xb Westwand Trad
64
65

red point

66
XIIb Yin Yan Trad
67
68
VIIIb ZweiterPlatz Trad

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