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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} IXb Alptraum Trad
2
{SX} IV Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} VI Alter Weg (oU) Trad

without support

4
{SX} XIIb Beginners Mind Trad
5
{SX} VIIa Bergweg Trad
6
{SX} Xa Blutige Spur Trad
7
{SX} IXc Burgwand Trad
8
{SX} IXc Christls Weg Trad
9
{SX} VIIIc DA zum Südweg Trad
10
{SX} VIIIb Direkte Nordwand Trad
11
{SX} VIIIb Direkter Südwestweg Trad
12
{SX} IXa Fahrstuhl Trad
13
{SX} IXa Fast am Ende Trad
14
{SX} VIIIb Goldener Mittelweg Trad
15
{SX} VIIIc Goldener Mittelweg (oU) Trad

without support

16
{SX} Xa Hades Trad
17
{SX} IXa Hohnsteiner Sex Trad
18
{SX} IXa Hohnsteiner Variante Trad
19
{SX} XIa Im 7.Himmel Trad
20
{SX} IXb Kindertraum Trad
21
{SX} XIb Kosmopolit Trad
22
23
24
{SX} VIIIc L'apres-midi d'un Faune Trad
25
{SX} VIIIc Linksweg Trad
26
{SX} VIIIb Mädchenvariante Trad
27
{SX} Xc Made of Dream Trad
28
{SX} Xa Marble flash Trad
29
{SX} XIa Metamorphose Trad
30
{SX} VIIIa Micromega Trad
31
{SX} IXc Mikrokosmos Trad
32
{SX} Xa Neue Nordwand Trad
33
{SX} VIIc Neuer Südwestweg Trad
34
{SX} VIIc Nordwand Trad
35
{SX} VIIIa Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

36
{SX} VIIIc Nordwestkante Trad
37
{SX} VIIa Ostweg Trad
38
{SX} Xa Pulsader Trad
39
{SX} Xa Rauher Wind Trad
40
{SX} IXb Rechtsweg Trad
41
{SX} IXb Schlangenader Trad
42
{SX} IXa Sebnitzer Variante Trad
43
{SX} VIIIc Sexter Trad
44
{SX} Xa Skarabäus Trad
45
{SX} IXc Stadtblick (RP) Trad

red point

46
{SX} Xa Stirnschlag Trad
47
{SX} VIIIa Südkante Trad
48
{SX} VI Südostweg Trad
49
{SX} VIIIa Südweg Trad
50
{SX} VIIb Südwestweg Trad
52
{SX} Xa The Bach Door Trad
53
{SX} IXa Thüringer Variante Trad
54
{SX} Xa Transplantation Trad
55
{SX} IXc Turbulenz (RP) Trad

red point

56
{SX} XIIa Vairagya Trad
57
{SX} VIIIb Variante zur westwand Trad
58
{SX} IXa Verdon (RP) Trad

red point

59
{SX} IXc Wasserstreifen Trad
60
{SX} Xc Wechselbalg Trad
61
{SX} IXc Weiße Wolke Trad
62
{SX} Xa Weiße Wolke direkt Trad
63
{SX} Xb Westwand Trad
64
{SX} VIIb Wettersteinerweg Trad
65
{SX} IXc Wide Spirit (RP) Trad

red point

66
{SX} XIIb Yin Yan Trad
67
{SX} IXb Zehenspitzentrip Trad
68
{SX} VIIIb ZweiterPlatz Trad
69