Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX IXb Alptraum Trad
2
SX IV Alter Weg Trad
3
SX VI Alter Weg (oU) Trad

without support

4
SX XIIb Beginners Mind Trad
5
SX VIIa Bergweg Trad
6
SX Xa Blutige Spur Trad
7
SX IXc Burgwand Trad
8
SX IXc Christls Weg Trad
9
SX VIIIc DA zum Südweg Trad
10
SX VIIIb Direkte Nordwand Trad
11
SX VIIIb Direkter Südwestweg Trad
12
SX IXa Fahrstuhl Trad
13
SX IXa Fast am Ende Trad
14
SX VIIIb Goldener Mittelweg Trad
15

without support

16
SX Xa Hades Trad
17
SX IXa Hohnsteiner Sex Trad
18
19
SX XIa Im 7.Himmel Trad
20
SX IXb Kindertraum Trad
21
SX XIb Kosmopolit Trad
24
25
SX VIIIc Linksweg Trad
26
SX VIIIb Mädchenvariante Trad
27
SX Xc Made of Dream Trad
28
SX Xa Marble flash Trad
29
SX XIa Metamorphose Trad
30
SX VIIIa Micromega Trad
31
SX IXc Mikrokosmos Trad
32
SX Xa Neue Nordwand Trad
33
SX VIIc Neuer Südwestweg Trad
34
SX VIIc Nordwand Trad
35
SX VIIIa Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

36
SX VIIIc Nordwestkante Trad
37
SX VIIa Ostweg Trad
38
SX Xa Pulsader Trad
39
SX Xa Rauher Wind Trad
40
SX IXb Rechtsweg Trad
41
SX IXb Schlangenader Trad
42
SX IXa Sebnitzer Variante Trad
43
SX VIIIc Sexter Trad
44
SX Xa Skarabäus Trad
45
SX IXc Stadtblick (RP) Trad

red point

46
SX Xa Stirnschlag Trad
47
SX VIIIa Südkante Trad
48
SX VI Südostweg Trad
49
SX VIIIa Südweg Trad
50
SX VIIb Südwestweg Trad
52
SX Xa The Bach Door Trad
53
54
SX Xa Transplantation Trad
55
SX IXc Turbulenz (RP) Trad

red point

56
SX XIIa Vairagya Trad
57
SX VIIIb Variante zur westwand Trad
58
SX IXa Verdon (RP) Trad

red point

59
SX IXc Wasserstreifen Trad
60
SX Xc Wechselbalg Trad
61
SX IXc Weiße Wolke Trad
62
63
SX Xb Westwand Trad
64
SX VIIb Wettersteinerweg Trad
65
SX IXc Wide Spirit (RP) Trad

red point

66
SX XIIb Yin Yan Trad
67
SX IXb Zehenspitzentrip Trad
68
SX VIIIb ZweiterPlatz Trad