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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Abseilwand
IXc
Trad
2 Alte Zeiten
IXb
Trad
3 Alter Weg
III
Trad
4 Die Toten Hosen
IXb
Trad
5 Direkte Fossilientour
VIIIb
Trad
6 Direkter Westriß
VIIa
Trad
7 Dunkler Kamin
III
Trad
8 End of an Affair
XIIb
Trad
9 Ernüchterung
IXb
Trad
10 Fossilientour
VIIc
Trad
11 Haferspur
VIIIc
Trad
12 Hosenscheißer (RP)

red point

Xa
Trad
13 Konfuzius
Xa
Trad
14 Kong-Fu-Zi
IXc
Trad
15 Kraft kommt von Kraftstoff (RP)

red point

Xb
Trad
16 Kraftfutter (RP)

red point

Xb
Trad
17 LSD
Xc
Trad
18 Märzenbecher
VIIIc
Trad
19 MZV
III
Trad
20 Nordwand
VIIc
Trad
21 Nordweg
III
Trad
22 Obere Variante zum Westriß
IV
Trad
23 Olympiawand
VIIIa
Trad
24 Open air
VIIIb
Trad
25 Ostwand
IXb
Trad
26 Schartenriß
VIIb
Trad
27 Südkamin
IV
Trad
28 Südostwand
IXb
Trad
29 überraschung zuletzt
VIIIc
Trad
30 Überraschungsei
IXa
Trad
31 Variante zum AW
III
Trad
32 Variante zur Ostwand
IXb
Trad
33 Wampe
Xa
Trad
34 Westriß
VIIa
Trad