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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} IXc Abseilwand Trad
2
{SX} IXb Alte Zeiten Trad
3
{SX} III Alter Weg Trad
4
{SX} IXb Die Toten Hosen Trad
5
{SX} VIIIb Direkte Fossilientour Trad
6
{SX} VIIa Direkter Westriß Trad
7
{SX} III Dunkler Kamin Trad
8
{SX} XIIb End of an Affair Trad
9
{SX} IXb Ernüchterung Trad
10
{SX} VIIc Fossilientour Trad
11
{SX} VIIIc Haferspur Trad
12
{SX} Xa Hosenscheißer (RP) Trad

red point

13
{SX} Xa Konfuzius Trad
14
{SX} IXc Kong-Fu-Zi Trad
15

red point

16
{SX} Xb Kraftfutter (RP) Trad

red point

17
{SX} Xc LSD Trad
18
{SX} VIIIc Märzenbecher Trad
19
{SX} III MZV Trad
20
{SX} VIIc Nordwand Trad
21
{SX} III Nordweg Trad
23
{SX} VIIIa Olympiawand Trad
24
{SX} VIIIb Open air Trad
25
{SX} IXb Ostwand Trad
26
{SX} VIIb Schartenriß Trad
27
{SX} IV Südkamin Trad
28
{SX} IXb Südostwand Trad
29
{SX} VIIIc überraschung zuletzt Trad
30
{SX} IXa Überraschungsei Trad
31
{SX} III Variante zum AW Trad
32
{SX} IXb Variante zur Ostwand Trad
33
{SX} Xa Wampe Trad
34
{SX} VIIa Westriß Trad