A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

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Table of contents

1. Hafersackkrone 34 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.129350, 50.957714

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Abseilwand IXcTrad
2 Alte Zeiten IXbTrad
3 Alter Weg IIITrad
4 Die Toten Hosen IXbTrad
5 Direkte Fossilientour VIIIbTrad
6 Direkter Westriß VIIaTrad
7 Dunkler Kamin IIITrad
8 End of an Affair XIIbTrad
9 Ernüchterung IXbTrad
10 Fossilientour VIIcTrad
11 Haferspur VIIIcTrad
12 Hosenscheißer (RP)

red point

XaTrad
13 Konfuzius XaTrad
14 Kong-Fu-Zi IXcTrad
15 Kraft kommt von Kraftstoff (RP)

red point

XbTrad
16 Kraftfutter (RP)

red point

XbTrad
17 LSD XcTrad
18 Märzenbecher VIIIcTrad
19 MZV IIITrad
20 Nordwand VIIcTrad
21 Nordweg IIITrad
22 Obere Variante zum Westriß IVTrad
23 Olympiawand VIIIaTrad
24 Open air VIIIbTrad
25 Ostwand IXbTrad
26 Schartenriß VIIbTrad
27 Südkamin IVTrad
28 Südostwand IXbTrad
29 überraschung zuletzt VIIIcTrad
30 Überraschungsei IXaTrad
31 Variante zum AW IIITrad
32 Variante zur Ostwand IXbTrad
33 Wampe XaTrad
34 Westriß VIIaTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Alter Weg Trad
Dunkler Kamin Trad
MZV Trad
Nordweg Trad
Variante zum AW Trad
IV Obere Variante zum Westriß Trad
Südkamin Trad
VIIa Direkter Westriß Trad
Westriß Trad
VIIb Schartenriß Trad
VIIc Fossilientour Trad
Nordwand Trad
VIIIa Olympiawand Trad
VIIIb Direkte Fossilientour Trad
Open air Trad
VIIIc Haferspur Trad
Märzenbecher Trad
überraschung zuletzt Trad
IXa Überraschungsei Trad
IXb Alte Zeiten Trad
Die Toten Hosen Trad
Ernüchterung Trad
Ostwand Trad
Südostwand Trad
Variante zur Ostwand Trad
IXc Abseilwand Trad
Kong-Fu-Zi Trad
Xa Hosenscheißer (RP) Trad
Konfuzius Trad
Wampe Trad
Xb Kraft kommt von Kraftstoff (RP) Trad
Kraftfutter (RP) Trad
Xc LSD Trad
XIIb End of an Affair Trad