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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Acces Sky
XIIb
Trad
2 Addition
IXa
Trad
3 Aehligweg (Südostweg)
VIIa
Trad
4 Aehligweg (Südostweg) (oU)

without support

VIIb
Trad
5 Alhambra
XIc
Trad
6 Alter Weg
VI
Trad
7 Brandneu
VIIIc
Trad
8 Bunter Drachen
IXc
Trad
9 Direkte Südwestwand
IXc
Trad
10 Eingebung (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
11 Endstation
XIa
Trad
12 Endvariante zum Südostweg
VIIIa
Trad
13 Ferienprogramm
IXc
Trad
14 Gebrochene Südkante
VIIIc
Trad
15 Heimatland
Xa
Trad
16 Heimatlos
Xa
Trad
17 Langeweile
IXc
Trad
18 Neue Südwestwand
IXc
Trad
19 Nordwestwand
VIIc
Trad
20 Nordwestwand (oU)

without support

VIIIa
Trad
21 Osterei
IXc
Trad
22 Ostkante (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
23 Pappnase
IXc
Trad
24 Regenbogenpalast
Xa
Trad
25 Sportplatz
Xc
Trad
26 Sportplatz direkt
Xc
Trad
27 Südkante
VIIIc
Trad
28 Südostwand
VIIb
Trad
29 Südostweg
VIIb
Trad
30 Südwestpfeiler
VIIc
Trad
31 Südwestriß
VI
Trad
32 Südwestwand
VIIIc
Trad
33 Südwestweg
VI
Trad
34 Superdirekter Sportplatz
Xc
Trad
35 Thriller
VIIIc
Trad
36 Variante zum AW
VIIa
Trad
37 Variante zum Südostweg
VIIb
Trad
38 Variante zur Nordwestwand
VIIb
Trad