Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} XIIb Acces Sky Trad
2
{SX} IXa Addition Trad
3
{SX} VIIa Aehligweg (Südostweg) Trad
4

without support

5
{SX} XIc Alhambra Trad
6
{SX} VI Alter Weg Trad
7
{SX} VIIIc Brandneu Trad
8
{SX} IXc Bunter Drachen Trad
9
{SX} IXc Direkte Südwestwand Trad
10
{SX} IXb Eingebung (RP) Trad

red point

11
{SX} XIa Endstation Trad
12
13
{SX} IXc Ferienprogramm Trad
14
{SX} VIIIc Gebrochene Südkante Trad
15
{SX} Xa Heimatland Trad
16
{SX} Xa Heimatlos Trad
17
{SX} IXc Langeweile Trad
18
{SX} IXc Neue Südwestwand Trad
19
{SX} VIIc Nordwestwand Trad
20
{SX} VIIIa Nordwestwand (oU) Trad

without support

21
{SX} IXc Osterei Trad
22
{SX} VIIIc Ostkante (RP) Trad

red point

23
{SX} IXc Pappnase Trad
24
{SX} Xa Regenbogenpalast Trad
25
{SX} Xc Sportplatz Trad
26
{SX} Xc Sportplatz direkt Trad
27
{SX} VIIIc Südkante Trad
28
{SX} VIIb Südostwand Trad
29
{SX} VIIb Südostweg Trad
30
{SX} VIIc Südwestpfeiler Trad
31
{SX} VI Südwestriß Trad
32
{SX} VIIIc Südwestwand Trad
33
{SX} VI Südwestweg Trad
35
{SX} VIIIc Thriller Trad
36
{SX} VIIa Variante zum AW Trad
37
{SX} VIIb Variante zum Südostweg Trad
38