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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
XIIb Acces Sky Trad
2
IXa Addition Trad
4

without support

5
XIc Alhambra Trad
6
VI Alter Weg Trad
7
VIIIc Brandneu Trad
8
IXc Bunter Drachen Trad
10
IXb Eingebung (RP) Trad

red point

11
XIa Endstation Trad
13
IXc Ferienprogramm Trad
15
Xa Heimatland Trad
16
Xa Heimatlos Trad
17
IXc Langeweile Trad
19
VIIc Nordwestwand Trad
20
VIIIa Nordwestwand (oU) Trad

without support

21
IXc Osterei Trad
22
VIIIc Ostkante (RP) Trad

red point

23
IXc Pappnase Trad
25
Xc Sportplatz Trad
27
VIIIc Südkante Trad
28
VIIb Südostwand Trad
29
VIIb Südostweg Trad
30
VIIc Südwestpfeiler Trad
31
VI Südwestriß Trad
32
VIIIc Südwestwand Trad
33
VI Südwestweg Trad
35
VIIIc Thriller Trad
36
VIIa Variante zum AW Trad

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