A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

anon

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Michaelistagstein 23 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.136527, 50.951829

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IIITrad
2 Auf dem rechten Weg (RP)

red point

IXaTrad
3 Aufbruch VIIIbTrad
4 Birkenkante VIIaTrad
5 Birkenweg VTrad
6 Direkte Südostwand VIIIcTrad
7 Direkter Birkenweg VTrad
8 Gerade Linie VIIcTrad
9 Held vom Erdbeerfeld (RP)

red point

VIIIcTrad
10 Langer Riß VITrad
11 Langzeitproblem VIIIaTrad
12 Nordostkante VTrad
13 Ochelweg VIIIaTrad
14 Ostweg VTrad
15 Reibung Über alles VIIIaTrad
16 Schartenkante VITrad
17 Schöne Zeit VIIbTrad
18 Spätsommer VIIIbTrad
19 Südostwand VIIIaTrad
20 Talseite VIIIaTrad
21 Talverschneidung IVTrad
22 Vollständige Talseite VIIIaTrad
23 Wir wollen klettern VIIcTrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
III Alter Weg Trad
IV Talverschneidung Trad
V Birkenweg Trad
Direkter Birkenweg Trad
Nordostkante Trad
Ostweg Trad
VI Langer Riß Trad
Schartenkante Trad
VIIa Birkenkante Trad
VIIb Schöne Zeit Trad
VIIc Gerade Linie Trad
Wir wollen klettern Trad
VIIIa Langzeitproblem Trad
Ochelweg Trad
Reibung Über alles Trad
Südostwand Trad
Talseite Trad
Vollständige Talseite Trad
VIIIb Aufbruch Trad
Spätsommer Trad
VIIIc Direkte Südostwand Trad
Held vom Erdbeerfeld (RP) Trad
IXa Auf dem rechten Weg (RP) Trad