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Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Alter Weg
I
Trad
2 AV zum Westweg
VI
Trad
3 Direkter Südweg
VIIc
Trad
4 Dschungelpfad
VIIb
Trad
5 Durch die Savanne
VIIc
Trad
6 Ein Katzensprung (RP)

red point

VIIIb
Trad
7 Eisenfinger
IXb
Trad
8 EV zum Übergang
IV
Trad
9 EV zum Westweg
V
Trad
10 Freie Wildbahn
VIIIb
Trad
11 Gebrochener Hammer (RP)

red point

VIIIc
Trad
12 Glücksstern (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
13 Große Wampe
VIIa
Trad
14 Großtierfährte
VIIIb
Trad
15 Guter Tip (RP)

red point

VIIc
Trad
16 Herbstweg
VIIb
Trad
17 Höhlenvariante
V
Trad
18 Horn
VIIa
Trad
19 Im Affenkäfig
IXc
Trad
20 Im Zoo unter Affen (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
21 In den Tropen
VIIIa
Trad
22 Kante
VIIIc
Trad
23 Kurze Safari
IXc
Trad
24 Mit oder ohne Liane
VIIa
Trad
25 Morgensport
VI
Trad
26 Morgensport (oU)

without support

VIIa
Trad
27 Neuer Südweg
IV
Trad
28 Neuer Südweg direkt
VIIa
Trad
29 Nordkamin
IV
Trad
30 Oberer Weg
V
Trad
31 Pfeilerkante
VIIa
Trad
32 Pfeilerkante Plus
VIIa
Trad
33 Pfeilerwand
VIIc
Trad
34 Pfingstweg
VIIb
Trad
35 Rhinozeros (RP)

red point

IXc
Trad
36 Schartenkamin
IV
Trad
37 Schnaufer
IXc
Trad
38 Serengeti
VIIa
Trad
39 Sight & Touch (RP)

red point

IXa
Trad
40 Sight and Touch
IXa
Trad
41 Später Herbst
VIIb
Trad
42 Südostweg
VI
Trad
43 Südriß
V
Trad
44 Südweg
VI
Trad
45 Südweg (oU)

without support

VIIb
Trad
46 Südwestreibung
VIIb
Trad
47 Südwestrinne
V
Trad
48 Südwestweg
I
Trad
49 Südwestwinkel
V
Trad
50 Tigers Pfad (RP)

red point

IXb
Trad
51 Tunnelvariante
I
Trad
52 übergang
III
Trad
53 Übungsquergang
VIIc
Trad
54 Vom Elefanten
IV
Trad
55 Westweg
V
Trad
56 Willis Bauch
VIIIc
Trad
57 Willkommen im Dschungel
IXa
Trad
58 Winterwanderung
VIIb
Trad