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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX I Alter Weg Trad
2
SX VI AV zum Westweg Trad
3
SX VIIc Direkter Südweg Trad
4
SX VIIb Dschungelpfad Trad
5
SX VIIc Durch die Savanne Trad
6
SX VIIIb Ein Katzensprung (RP) Trad

red point

7
SX IXb Eisenfinger Trad
8
SX IV EV zum Übergang Trad
9
SX V EV zum Westweg Trad
10
SX VIIIb Freie Wildbahn Trad
11

red point

12
SX IXc Glücksstern (RP) Trad

red point

13
SX VIIa Große Wampe Trad
14
SX VIIIb Großtierfährte Trad
15
SX VIIc Guter Tip (RP) Trad

red point

16
SX VIIb Herbstweg Trad
17
SX V Höhlenvariante Trad
18
SX VIIa Horn Trad
19
SX IXc Im Affenkäfig Trad
20

red point

21
SX VIIIa In den Tropen Trad
22
SX VIIIc Kante Trad
23
SX IXc Kurze Safari Trad
24
SX VIIa Mit oder ohne Liane Trad
25
SX VI Morgensport Trad
26
SX VIIa Morgensport (oU) Trad

without support

27
SX IV Neuer Südweg Trad
28
SX VIIa Neuer Südweg direkt Trad
29
SX IV Nordkamin Trad
30
SX V Oberer Weg Trad
31
SX VIIa Pfeilerkante Trad
32
SX VIIa Pfeilerkante Plus Trad
33
SX VIIc Pfeilerwand Trad
34
SX VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
35
SX IXc Rhinozeros (RP) Trad

red point

36
SX IV Schartenkamin Trad
37
SX IXc Schnaufer Trad
38
SX VIIa Serengeti Trad
39
SX IXa Sight & Touch (RP) Trad

red point

40
SX IXa Sight and Touch Trad
41
SX VIIb Später Herbst Trad
42
SX VI Südostweg Trad
43
SX V Südriß Trad
44
SX VI Südweg Trad
45
SX VIIb Südweg (oU) Trad

without support

46
SX VIIb Südwestreibung Trad
47
SX V Südwestrinne Trad
48
SX I Südwestweg Trad
49
SX V Südwestwinkel Trad
50
SX IXb Tigers Pfad (RP) Trad

red point

51
SX I Tunnelvariante Trad
52
SX III übergang Trad
53
SX VIIc Übungsquergang Trad
54
SX IV Vom Elefanten Trad
55
SX V Westweg Trad
56
SX VIIIc Willis Bauch Trad
58
SX VIIb Winterwanderung Trad