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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
2
{SX} VI AV zum Westweg Trad
3
{SX} VIIc Direkter Südweg Trad
4
{SX} VIIb Dschungelpfad Trad
5
{SX} VIIc Durch die Savanne Trad
6
{SX} VIIIb Ein Katzensprung (RP) Trad

red point

7
{SX} IXb Eisenfinger Trad
8
{SX} IV EV zum Übergang Trad
9
{SX} V EV zum Westweg Trad
10
{SX} VIIIb Freie Wildbahn Trad
11
{SX} VIIIc Gebrochener Hammer (RP) Trad

red point

12
{SX} IXc Glücksstern (RP) Trad

red point

13
{SX} VIIa Große Wampe Trad
14
{SX} VIIIb Großtierfährte Trad
15
{SX} VIIc Guter Tip (RP) Trad

red point

16
{SX} VIIb Herbstweg Trad
17
{SX} V Höhlenvariante Trad
18
{SX} VIIa Horn Trad
19
{SX} IXc Im Affenkäfig Trad
20

red point

21
{SX} VIIIa In den Tropen Trad
22
{SX} VIIIc Kante Trad
23
{SX} IXc Kurze Safari Trad
24
{SX} VIIa Mit oder ohne Liane Trad
25
{SX} VI Morgensport Trad
26
{SX} VIIa Morgensport (oU) Trad

without support

27
{SX} IV Neuer Südweg Trad
28
{SX} VIIa Neuer Südweg direkt Trad
29
{SX} IV Nordkamin Trad
30
{SX} V Oberer Weg Trad
31
{SX} VIIa Pfeilerkante Trad
32
{SX} VIIa Pfeilerkante Plus Trad
33
{SX} VIIc Pfeilerwand Trad
34
{SX} VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
35
{SX} IXc Rhinozeros (RP) Trad

red point

36
{SX} IV Schartenkamin Trad
37
{SX} IXc Schnaufer Trad
38
{SX} VIIa Serengeti Trad
39
{SX} IXa Sight & Touch (RP) Trad

red point

40
{SX} IXa Sight and Touch Trad
41
{SX} VIIb Später Herbst Trad
42
{SX} VI Südostweg Trad
43
{SX} V Südriß Trad
44
{SX} VI Südweg Trad
45
{SX} VIIb Südweg (oU) Trad

without support

46
{SX} VIIb Südwestreibung Trad
47
{SX} V Südwestrinne Trad
48
{SX} I Südwestweg Trad
49
{SX} V Südwestwinkel Trad
50
{SX} IXb Tigers Pfad (RP) Trad

red point

51
{SX} I Tunnelvariante Trad
52
{SX} III übergang Trad
53
{SX} VIIc Übungsquergang Trad
54
{SX} IV Vom Elefanten Trad
55
{SX} V Westweg Trad
56
{SX} VIIIc Willis Bauch Trad
57
58
{SX} VIIb Winterwanderung Trad