Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
I Alter Weg Trad
3
4
VIIb Dschungelpfad Trad
6

red point

7
IXb Eisenfinger Trad
10
VIIIb Freie Wildbahn Trad
11

red point

12

red point

13
VIIa Große Wampe Trad
14
VIIIb Großtierfährte Trad
15
VIIc Guter Tip (RP) Trad

red point

16
VIIb Herbstweg Trad
18
VIIa Horn Trad
19
IXc Im Affenkäfig Trad
20

red point

21
VIIIa In den Tropen Trad
22
VIIIc Kante Trad
23
IXc Kurze Safari Trad
25
VI Morgensport Trad
26

without support

27
29
IV Nordkamin Trad
30
V Oberer Weg Trad
31
VIIa Pfeilerkante Trad
32
33
VIIc Pfeilerwand Trad
34
VIIb Pfingstweg Trad
35

red point

36
37
IXc Schnaufer Trad
38
VIIa Serengeti Trad
39

red point

40
41
VIIb Später Herbst Trad
42
VI Südostweg Trad
43
V Südriß Trad
44
VI Südweg Trad
45
VIIb Südweg (oU) Trad

without support

46
VIIb Südwestreibung Trad
47
48
I Südwestweg Trad
50

red point

52
III übergang Trad
53
VIIc Übungsquergang Trad
54
55
V Westweg Trad
56
VIIIc Willis Bauch Trad
58
VIIb Winterwanderung Trad

Activity

Check out what is happening in Nashorn.