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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIIb 20m-Wand Trad
2
SX VIIIc 30m-Wand Trad
3
SX I Alter Weg Trad
4
SX VIIc Ameisenweg Trad
5
SX VIIIc Ameisenweg (oU) Trad

without support

6

red point

7
SX IXc Dame im Nerz (RP) Trad

red point

8
SX IXb Direkte Nordkante Trad
9
SX VIIc Direkter Ostweg Trad
10
SX VIIb Dunkles Gnu Trad
11

red point

12
SX VIIIc Faßkante Trad
13

red point

14
SX VIIIc Freitagabend (RP) Trad

red point

15
SX IXc Für heiße Tage Trad
16
SX VIIIa Juniorenpfeiler Trad
17
SX Xa Lachsleiter Trad
18
SX VIIIa Linksbogen Trad
19
SX VIIIc Lustscharte Trad
20
SX VIIIc Nordkante Trad
21
SX VIIb Nordostriß Trad
22
SX II Nordweg Trad
23
SX VIIIa Ohne Riß bitte (RP) Trad

red point

24
SX IV Ostkamin Trad
26
SX VIIa Ostweg Trad
27
SX VIIIc Panoptikum (RP) Trad

red point

28
SX IXb Privileg Trad
29
SX VIIIc Ramadan Trad
30

red point

31
SX V Schartenriß Trad
32
SX VI Schartenriß (oU) Trad

without support

33
SX VIIIc Septismus Trad
34

red point

35
36
SX VIIIc Stumpfer Keil Trad
37
SX III Südweg Trad
39
40
SX VIIb Vergnügen Trad
42
43
SX VIIc Westkante Trad
45
SX V Winkelweg Trad
46
47
SX IXa Zwischenspiel (RP) Trad

red point