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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIIb 20m-Wand Trad
2
{SX} VIIIc 30m-Wand Trad
3
{SX} I Alter Weg Trad
4
{SX} VIIc Ameisenweg Trad
5
{SX} VIIIc Ameisenweg (oU) Trad

without support

6

red point

7
{SX} IXc Dame im Nerz (RP) Trad

red point

8
{SX} IXb Direkte Nordkante Trad
9
{SX} VIIc Direkter Ostweg Trad
10
{SX} VIIb Dunkles Gnu Trad
11

red point

12
{SX} VIIIc Faßkante Trad
13

red point

14
{SX} VIIIc Freitagabend (RP) Trad

red point

15
{SX} IXc Für heiße Tage Trad
16
{SX} VIIIa Juniorenpfeiler Trad
17
{SX} Xa Lachsleiter Trad
18
{SX} VIIIa Linksbogen Trad
19
{SX} VIIIc Lustscharte Trad
20
{SX} VIIIc Nordkante Trad
21
{SX} VIIb Nordostriß Trad
22
{SX} II Nordweg Trad
23
{SX} VIIIa Ohne Riß bitte (RP) Trad

red point

24
{SX} IV Ostkamin Trad
26
{SX} VIIa Ostweg Trad
27
{SX} VIIIc Panoptikum (RP) Trad

red point

28
{SX} IXb Privileg Trad
29
{SX} VIIIc Ramadan Trad
30
{SX} IXb Sandharfenkapuze (RP) Trad

red point

31
{SX} V Schartenriß Trad
32
{SX} VI Schartenriß (oU) Trad

without support

33
{SX} VIIIc Septismus Trad
34
{SX} IXc Sportbefreiung (RP) Trad

red point

35
{SX} IXc Sport-Frei-Variante Trad
36
{SX} VIIIc Stumpfer Keil Trad
37
{SX} III Südweg Trad
38
{SX} IV Variante zum Nordweg Trad
39
{SX} VIIc Variante zur Westkante Trad
40
{SX} VIIb Vergnügen Trad
41
42
{SX} VIIIb Wand hinter der Kiefer Trad
43
{SX} VIIc Westkante Trad
45
{SX} V Winkelweg Trad
46
{SX} VI Zufälliges Glück Trad
47
{SX} IXa Zwischenspiel (RP) Trad

red point