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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIa 66 Trad
2
{SX} II Alter Weg Trad
3
{SX} Xa Angenehme Stürze Trad
4
{SX} IXc Begeisterung (RP) Trad

red point

5
{SX} XIb Criss Cross Trad
6
{SX} VIIIb Direkte Südwand Trad
7
{SX} VIIIa Erfrischung Trad
8
{SX} VIIa Ferienweg Trad
9
{SX} VIIIb Friedensdemo (RP) Trad

red point

10
{SX} V Frühlingsweg Trad
11
{SX} IXb Gelber Streifen (RP) Trad

red point

12
{SX} VIIIa Geteilte Freude Trad
13
{SX} VIIb Hetzjagd Trad
14
{SX} Xa Hohlspiegel Trad
15
{SX} VIIIb Kleiner Frieden (RP) Trad

red point

16
{SX} IXa Linksbegrenzung Trad
17
{SX} Xb Mittendrin Trad
18
{SX} VIIIb Moderne Südwand Trad
19
{SX} Xc Navigation Trad
20
{SX} Xb Neue Spur der Steine Trad
21
{SX} VIIIc Neue Südwand (RP) Trad

red point

22
{SX} III Nordweg Trad
23
{SX} IXa Nordwestwand Trad
24
{SX} VI Ostertour Trad
25
{SX} VI Schartenweg Trad
26
{SX} VIIa Schartenweg (oU) Trad

without support

27
{SX} III Schlauch Trad
28
{SX} VIIb Schmalseite Trad
29
{SX} VIIa Sechsundsechzig Trad
30
{SX} Xc Seelenwanderung Trad
31
{SX} Xb Spur der Steine Trad
32
{SX} III Südkamin Trad
33
{SX} VIIc Südwand Trad
34
{SX} VIIc Südwestkante Trad
35
{SX} VIIIc Südwestkante direkt Trad
36
{SX} VIIb Verlängerte Sache Trad
37
{SX} VIIIa Wiedervereinigung (RP) Trad

red point