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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIa 66 Trad
2
SX II Alter Weg Trad
3
SX Xa Angenehme Stürze Trad
4
SX IXc Begeisterung (RP) Trad

red point

5
SX XIb Criss Cross Trad
6
SX VIIIb Direkte Südwand Trad
7
SX VIIIa Erfrischung Trad
8
SX VIIa Ferienweg Trad
9
SX VIIIb Friedensdemo (RP) Trad

red point

10
SX V Frühlingsweg Trad
11

red point

12
SX VIIIa Geteilte Freude Trad
13
SX VIIb Hetzjagd Trad
14
SX Xa Hohlspiegel Trad
15
SX VIIIb Kleiner Frieden (RP) Trad

red point

16
SX IXa Linksbegrenzung Trad
17
SX Xb Mittendrin Trad
18
SX VIIIb Moderne Südwand Trad
19
SX Xc Navigation Trad
21
SX VIIIc Neue Südwand (RP) Trad

red point

22
SX III Nordweg Trad
23
SX IXa Nordwestwand Trad
24
SX VI Ostertour Trad
25
SX VI Schartenweg Trad
26
SX VIIa Schartenweg (oU) Trad

without support

27
SX III Schlauch Trad
28
SX VIIb Schmalseite Trad
29
SX VIIa Sechsundsechzig Trad
30
SX Xc Seelenwanderung Trad
31
SX Xb Spur der Steine Trad
32
SX III Südkamin Trad
33
SX VIIc Südwand Trad
34
SX VIIc Südwestkante Trad
35
SX VIIIc Südwestkante direkt Trad
36
SX VIIb Verlängerte Sache Trad
37

red point