A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Polenztalwächter 37 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.108219, 50.962481

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 66 VIIaTrad
2 Alter Weg IITrad
3 Angenehme Stürze XaTrad
4 Begeisterung (RP)

red point

5 Criss Cross XIbTrad
6 Direkte Südwand VIIIbTrad
7 Erfrischung VIIIaTrad
8 Ferienweg VIIaTrad
9 Friedensdemo (RP)

red point

10 Frühlingsweg VTrad
11 Gelber Streifen (RP)

red point

12 Geteilte Freude VIIIaTrad
13 Hetzjagd VIIbTrad
14 Hohlspiegel XaTrad
15 Kleiner Frieden (RP)

red point

16 Linksbegrenzung IXaTrad
17 Mittendrin XbTrad
18 Moderne Südwand VIIIbTrad
19 Navigation XcTrad
20 Neue Spur der Steine XbTrad
21 Neue Südwand (RP)

red point

22 Nordweg IIITrad
23 Nordwestwand IXaTrad
24 Ostertour VITrad
25 Schartenweg VITrad
26 Schartenweg (oU)

without support

27 Schlauch IIITrad
28 Schmalseite VIIbTrad
29 Sechsundsechzig VIIaTrad
30 Seelenwanderung XcTrad
31 Spur der Steine XbTrad
32 Südkamin IIITrad
33 Südwand VIIcTrad
34 Südwestkante VIIcTrad
35 Südwestkante direkt VIIIcTrad
36 Verlängerte Sache VIIbTrad
37 Wiedervereinigung (RP)

red point


2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
III Nordweg Trad
Schlauch Trad
Südkamin Trad
V Frühlingsweg Trad
VI Ostertour Trad
Schartenweg Trad
VIIa 66 Trad
Ferienweg Trad
Schartenweg (oU) Trad
Sechsundsechzig Trad
VIIb Hetzjagd Trad
Schmalseite Trad
Verlängerte Sache Trad
VIIc Südwand Trad
Südwestkante Trad
VIIIa Erfrischung Trad
Geteilte Freude Trad
Wiedervereinigung (RP) Trad
VIIIb Direkte Südwand Trad
Friedensdemo (RP) Trad
Kleiner Frieden (RP) Trad
Moderne Südwand Trad
VIIIc Neue Südwand (RP) Trad
Südwestkante direkt Trad
IXa Linksbegrenzung Trad
Nordwestwand Trad
IXb Gelber Streifen (RP) Trad
IXc Begeisterung (RP) Trad
Xa Angenehme Stürze Trad
Hohlspiegel Trad
Xb Mittendrin Trad
Neue Spur der Steine Trad
Spur der Steine Trad
Xc Navigation Trad
Seelenwanderung Trad
XIb Criss Cross Trad