A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Saugrundwächter 17 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.113587, 50.963188

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg VIIb Trad
2 Begradigung VIIa Trad
3 Bergweg IV Trad
4 Blattschuß VIIc Trad
5 Blattschuß (oU)

without support

VIIIb Trad
6 Bleib in der Mitte ! VIIc Trad
7 Direkte Variante zum Alten Weg VIIc Trad
8 Direkte Variante zum AW VIIc Trad
9 DV zum AW VIIc Trad
10 EV zum AW VIIb Trad
11 Märzweg V Trad
12 Neuer Bergweg IV Trad
13 Schluchtweg V Trad
14 Sprung 3 Trad
15 Südostweg VIIb Trad
16 Variante zum Märzweg V Trad
17 Westriß VIIb Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
IV Bergweg Trad
Neuer Bergweg Trad
V Märzweg Trad
Schluchtweg Trad
Variante zum Märzweg Trad
VIIa Begradigung Trad
VIIb Alter Weg Trad
EV zum AW Trad
Südostweg Trad
Westriß Trad
VIIc Blattschuß Trad
Bleib in der Mitte ! Trad
DV zum AW Trad
Direkte Variante zum AW Trad
Direkte Variante zum Alten Weg Trad
VIIIb Blattschuß (oU) Trad
3 Sprung Trad