A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Spanische Wand 29 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.121262, 50.957038

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg II Trad
2 AW, Variante V Trad
3 Face to face VIIIc Trad
4 Februarvariante VIIa Trad
5 Flamenco IXa Trad
6 Grüße nach Görlitz (RP)

red point

VIIIc Trad
7 Herbstspiel IXa Trad
8 Herbstspiel (oU)

without support

IXb Trad
9 Januarstiege VI Trad
10 Just a little VIIb Trad
11 Kartuschentod VIIb Trad
12 Kurzer Riß V Trad
13 Märzkante VIIc Trad
14 Märzkante (oU)

without support

VIIIc Trad
15 Morgensonne (RP)

red point

VIIIc Trad
16 Neue Südwand VIIIa Trad
17 Ostwand (RP)

red point

IXb Trad
18 Plattenweg III Trad
19 Polenzkante VIIa Trad
20 Polenzwand VIIa Trad
21 Schartenwand VIIa Trad
22 Sonntagsweg VIIc Trad
23 Südpfeiler VIIIb Trad
24 Südriß VIIa Trad
25 Südwand VIIIa Trad
26 TGV-Variante VIIIb Trad
27 Uhrpendel IXa Trad
28 Variante zum Aw V Trad
29 Variante zum Plattenweg III Trad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
III Plattenweg Trad
Variante zum Plattenweg Trad
V AW, Variante Trad
Kurzer Riß Trad
Variante zum Aw Trad
VI Januarstiege Trad
VIIa Februarvariante Trad
Polenzkante Trad
Polenzwand Trad
Schartenwand Trad
Südriß Trad
VIIb Just a little Trad
Kartuschentod Trad
VIIc Märzkante Trad
Sonntagsweg Trad
VIIIa Neue Südwand Trad
Südwand Trad
VIIIb Südpfeiler Trad
TGV-Variante Trad
VIIIc Face to face Trad
Grüße nach Görlitz (RP) Trad
Morgensonne (RP) Trad
Märzkante (oU) Trad
IXa Flamenco Trad
Herbstspiel Trad
Uhrpendel Trad
IXb Herbstspiel (oU) Trad
Ostwand (RP) Trad