A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Spanische Wand 29 routes in Cliff

All Trad

Long/Lat: 14.121262, 50.957038

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Alter Weg IITrad
2 AW, Variante VTrad
3 Face to face VIIIcTrad
4 Februarvariante VIIaTrad
5 Flamenco IXaTrad
6 Grüße nach Görlitz (RP)

red point

7 Herbstspiel IXaTrad
8 Herbstspiel (oU)

without support

9 Januarstiege VITrad
10 Just a little VIIbTrad
11 Kartuschentod VIIbTrad
12 Kurzer Riß VTrad
13 Märzkante VIIcTrad
14 Märzkante (oU)

without support

15 Morgensonne (RP)

red point

16 Neue Südwand VIIIaTrad
17 Ostwand (RP)

red point

18 Plattenweg IIITrad
19 Polenzkante VIIaTrad
20 Polenzwand VIIaTrad
21 Schartenwand VIIaTrad
22 Sonntagsweg VIIcTrad
23 Südpfeiler VIIIbTrad
24 Südriß VIIaTrad
25 Südwand VIIIaTrad
26 TGV-Variante VIIIbTrad
27 Uhrpendel IXaTrad
28 Variante zum Aw VTrad
29 Variante zum Plattenweg IIITrad

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
II Alter Weg Trad
III Plattenweg Trad
Variante zum Plattenweg Trad
V AW, Variante Trad
Kurzer Riß Trad
Variante zum Aw Trad
VI Januarstiege Trad
VIIa Februarvariante Trad
Polenzkante Trad
Polenzwand Trad
Schartenwand Trad
Südriß Trad
VIIb Just a little Trad
Kartuschentod Trad
VIIc Märzkante Trad
Sonntagsweg Trad
VIIIa Neue Südwand Trad
Südwand Trad
VIIIb Südpfeiler Trad
TGV-Variante Trad
VIIIc Face to face Trad
Grüße nach Görlitz (RP) Trad
Morgensonne (RP) Trad
Märzkante (oU) Trad
IXa Flamenco Trad
Herbstspiel Trad
Uhrpendel Trad
IXb Herbstspiel (oU) Trad
Ostwand (RP) Trad