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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} V 1.Variante zum AW Trad
2
{SX} VIIa 2. Variante zum AW Trad
3
{SX} VIIc 2. Variante zum AW (oU) Trad

without support

4
{SX} VI Alter Weg Trad
5
{SX} IXc Direkte Nordwand Trad
6
{SX} IXc Geiersturzflug Trad
7
{SX} Xb Graue Theorie Trad
8
{SX} VI Herbstweg Trad
9
{SX} Xa Kein Mut zum Risiko Trad
10
{SX} IXc Kistenkratz Trad
11
{SX} V Leichter Weg Trad
12
{SX} VIIIc Luftblase Trad
13
{SX} VIIIc Nordpfeiler Trad
14
{SX} VIIb Nordriß Trad
15
{SX} VIIIb Nordwand Trad
16
{SX} VIIIc Oberer Quergang Trad
17
{SX} VIIa Spielerei Trad
18
{SX} VIIc Südostweg Trad
19
{SX} VIIIa Südostweg (oU) Trad

without support

20
{SX} VIIa Südriß Trad
21
{SX} VIIc Talweg Trad
22
{SX} VIIIc Tendenz steigend Trad
23
{SX} IXa Treppe umgekehrt Trad
24
{SX} IXc Treppe umgekehrt (oU) Trad

without support

25
{SX} IXa Trikolore Trad
26
{SX} Xb überm tiefen Grund Trad
27
{SX} IXc Viermännerwand Trad
28
{SX} IXb Ziel Trad