Site navigation

Grade search

Leaderboard

Instant PDF

Access Issues: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic: inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 1.Variante zum AW
V
Trad
2 2. Variante zum AW
VIIa
Trad
3 2. Variante zum AW (oU)

without support

VIIc
Trad
4 Alter Weg
VI
Trad
5 Direkte Nordwand
IXc
Trad
6 Geiersturzflug
IXc
Trad
7 Graue Theorie
Xb
Trad
8 Herbstweg
VI
Trad
9 Kein Mut zum Risiko
Xa
Trad
10 Kistenkratz
IXc
Trad
11 Leichter Weg
V
Trad
12 Luftblase
VIIIc
Trad
13 Nordpfeiler
VIIIc
Trad
14 Nordriß
VIIb
Trad
15 Nordwand
VIIIb
Trad
16 Oberer Quergang
VIIIc
Trad
17 Spielerei
VIIa
Trad
18 Südostweg
VIIc
Trad
19 Südostweg (oU)

without support

VIIIa
Trad
20 Südriß
VIIa
Trad
21 Talweg
VIIc
Trad
22 Tendenz steigend
VIIIc
Trad
23 Treppe umgekehrt
IXa
Trad
24 Treppe umgekehrt (oU)

without support

IXc
Trad
25 Trikolore
IXa
Trad
26 überm tiefen Grund
Xb
Trad
27 Viermännerwand
IXc
Trad
28 Ziel
IXb
Trad