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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
VIIa Aehligweg Trad
2
4
IV Alternative Trad
5
VIIIb Alternative 84 Trad
9
VIIIc Ausweg (RP) Trad

red point

12
Xc Balancier Trad
13
IXb Blaues Wunder Trad
16
VIIIa ** Der Zittauer Mixed 5
17
VIIIb ** Der Zittauer (oU) Mixed 5

without support

18
VIIIb Direkte Westkante Trad
19
VIIIc Direkte Westwand Trad
20
VIIIb Direkter Westgrat Trad
22
Xa Durststrecke Trad
23
VIIIb DV zum Zittauer Trad
24
VIIIb DV zur Südwand Trad
25
VIIa Eckweg Trad
26
IXb Eiertanz Trad
32
33
VIIc Feine Risse Trad
34
IXa Finale Trad
35
VIIIa Fremdenführe Trad
36
IXa Ganja Trad
37
VIIIb Geburtstagstour Trad
38
VIIIa Geländervariante Trad
39
40
41
VIIIc Hampelmann Trad
42
VIIb Häntzschelweg Trad
43

red point

44
45
46
VIIIa Hinterm Horizont Trad
47
48

without support

49
VIIIa Hohe Kante Trad
50
V Hoher Riß Trad
51
VIIb Hoher Winkel Trad
52
VIIIa Horror vacui Trad
53
VIIIa Hungerkante Trad
54
VIIc Illmerweg Trad
55

red point

56
Xa Känguruh Trad
57
59
VIIIa Kombination Trad
60
VIIa ** Kotzwand Trad
62
VIIa Krippener Weg Trad
63
VIIIc Krönung Trad
64
IV Kunzeweg Trad
69
IXb Mauersegler Trad
73
VIIIc Nachmittag Trad
75
76
VIIa Neuer Westweg Trad
78
IXb Nordlicht Trad
79
IV Nordostkamin Trad
80
VI Nordostweg Trad
81
VIIIa Nordpfeiler Trad
82
VIIb Nordverbindung Trad
83
VIIb Nordwand Trad
84
VIIIa Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

85
VIIa Nordwestkante Trad
86
VIIc Offerte Trad
87
IV Ostweg Trad
88
VIIIc Pech und Schwefel Trad
89
90
VIIc Reginawand Mixed 90m, 3, 5
91
VIIIa *** Reginawand (oU) Trad 90m, 3

without support

93

without support

94
VIIc Richtfest Trad
95
VIIa Rohnspitzlerweg Trad
96
97
VIIIc Rot-Grüne-Kante Trad
98
VIIb Schandauer Weg Trad
99
VIIIc Schefflerweg Trad
100
101
VIIIb Schluchtwand Trad
102
VIIc Schluchtweg Trad
103
104
105
III *** Schusterweg Mixed 100m, 6, 3

FA: Oscar Schuster & M. Klimmer, 1892

106
107
108

without support

109

red point

110
111
VIIc Sommervariante Trad
113
114
115
VIIb Strubichweg Trad
116
VIIc Stumpfe Kante Trad
117
IXa Südostpfeiler Trad
118
VIIa ** Südriß Mixed 80m, 3
119
VIIb * Südriß direkt Trad
120
IXc Südseetraum Trad
121
VIIIb Südwand Trad
122
VI Südwestweg Trad
123

without support

124
VIIb Tagestour Trad
125
126
III Turnerweg Trad

Set 1886

127

red point

128
Xb Vakuum Trad
130
VIIc Variante Trad
134

red point

135

red point

139
IXa Westgrat Trad
140
VIIIa Westkante Trad
141
IXc Westpfeiler Trad
142
VIIIb Westschlucht Trad
143
VIIIc Westwand Trad
144
VIIb Wetterwand Trad
145

red point

146
VIIb Winkelvariante Trad
147
VIIIc Wünschequergang Trad
148

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