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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
SX VIIa Aehligweg Trad
2
SX IV Alter Westweg Trad
4
SX IV Alternative Trad
5
SX VIIIb Alternative 84 Trad
9
SX VIIIc Ausweg (RP) Trad

red point

11
12
SX Xc Balancier Trad
13
SX IXb Blaues Wunder Trad
14

red point

16
SX VIIIa Der Zittauer Mixed 5
17
SX VIIIb Der Zittauer (oU) Mixed 5

without support

18
SX VIIIb Direkte Westkante Trad
19
SX VIIIc Direkte Westwand Trad
20
SX VIIIb Direkter Westgrat Trad
22
SX Xa Durststrecke Trad
23
SX VIIIb DV zum Zittauer Trad
24
SX VIIIb DV zur Südwand Trad
25
SX VIIa Eckweg Trad
26
SX IXb Eiertanz Trad
28
29
SX VIIb EV zur Nordwestkante Trad
31
32
SX VI Falkenschlucht Trad
33
SX VIIc Feine Risse Trad
34
SX IXa Finale Trad
35
SX VIIIa Fremdenführe Trad
36
SX IXa Ganja Trad
37
SX VIIIb Geburtstagstour Trad
38
SX VIIIa Geländervariante Trad
39
SX VIIIa Generationsproblem Trad
40
SX III Gerbingvariante Trad
41
SX VIIIc Hampelmann Trad
42
SX VIIb Häntzschelweg Trad
43

red point

44
SX VIIa Hinter der Nadel Trad
45
SX VIIb Hinter der Zinne Trad
46
SX VIIIa Hinterm Horizont Trad
47
SX VIIb Hochzeitsvariante Trad
48

without support

49
SX VIIIa Hohe Kante Trad
50
SX V Hoher Riß Trad
51
SX VIIb Hoher Winkel Trad
52
SX VIIIa Horror vacui Trad
53
SX VIIIa Hungerkante Trad
54
SX VIIc Illmerweg Trad
55

red point

56
SX Xa Känguruh Trad
57
SX III Klimmervariante Trad
59
SX VIIIa Kombination Trad
60
SX VIIa Kotzwand Trad
61
SX VIIa Kreuz der Ewigkeit Trad
62
SX VIIa Krippener Weg Trad
63
SX VIIIc Krönung Trad
64
SX IV Kunzeweg Trad
65
67
SX IXc Liebe und Frieden Trad
68
SX Xc Los der Schwere Trad
69
SX IXb Mauersegler Trad
73
SX VIIIc Nachmittag Trad
74
SX Xc Naturfreundeweg Trad
75
SX VIIc Neuer Schluchtweg Trad
76
SX VIIa Neuer Westweg Trad
78
SX IXb Nordlicht Trad
79
SX IV Nordostkamin Trad
80
SX VI Nordostweg Trad
81
SX VIIIa Nordpfeiler Trad
82
SX VIIb Nordverbindung Trad
83
SX VIIb Nordwand Trad
84
SX VIIIa Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

85
SX VIIa Nordwestkante Trad
86
SX VIIc Offerte Trad
87
SX IV Ostweg Trad
88
SX VIIIc Pech und Schwefel Trad
89
SX IXa Rechte Südwand Trad
90
SX VIIc Reginawand Trad
91
SX VIIIa Reginawand (oU) Trad

without support

92
93

without support

94
SX VIIc Richtfest Trad
95
SX VIIa Rohnspitzlerweg Trad
96
SX VIIIc Rosaroter Zärtling Trad
97
SX VIIIc Rot-Grüne-Kante Trad
98
SX VIIb Schandauer Weg Trad
99
SX VIIIc Schefflerweg Trad
100
SX VIIIa Schlechtwetterwand Trad
101
SX VIIIb Schluchtwand Trad
102
SX VIIc Schluchtweg Trad
103
SX VIIc Schönwetterwand Trad
104
SX III Schräger Kamin Trad
105
SX III *** Schusterweg Mixed 100m, 3

FA: Oscar Schuster, M. Klimmer, 1892

106
SX VIIIa Schwarz-Grüne Wand Trad
107
SX VIIb Schwefelbrüderweg Trad
108

without support

109
SX VIIIc Sexy-Variante (RP) Trad

red point

110
SX VIIIa Sexy-Variante links Trad
111
SX VIIc Sommervariante Trad
113
SX Xb sonnenwendweg Trad
114
SX IXb Stern des Südens Trad
115
SX VIIb Strubichweg Trad
116
SX VIIc Stumpfe Kante Trad
117
SX IXa Südostpfeiler Trad
118
SX VIIa Südriß Mixed 80m, 3
119
SX VIIb Südriß direkt Trad
120
SX IXc Südseetraum Trad
121
SX VIIIb Südwand Trad
122
SX VI Südwestweg Trad
123
SX VIIb Südwestweg (oU) Trad

without support

124
SX VIIb Tagestour Trad
125
SX V Turnervariante Trad
126
SX III Turnerweg Trad

Set 1886

127

red point

128
SX Xb Vakuum Trad
130
SX VIIc Variante Trad
132
133
134

red point

135
SX VIIIc Verbindungswand (RP) Trad

red point

138
139
SX IXa Westgrat Trad
140
SX VIIIa Westkante Trad
141
SX IXc Westpfeiler Trad
142
SX VIIIb Westschlucht Trad
143
SX VIIIc Westwand Trad
144
SX VIIb Wetterwand Trad
145

red point

146
SX VIIb Winkelvariante Trad
147
SX VIIIc Wünschequergang Trad
148
SX IXc Zentrale Südwand Trad
149