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Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at http://dav-felsinfo.de .

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
{SX} VIIa Aehligweg Trad
2
{SX} IV Alter Westweg Trad
4
{SX} IV Alternative Trad
5
{SX} VIIIb Alternative 84 Trad
9
{SX} VIIIc Ausweg (RP) Trad

red point

11
{SX} III AV zum Nordostkamin Trad
12
{SX} Xc Balancier Trad
13
{SX} IXb Blaues Wunder Trad
14

red point

16
{SX} VIIIa Der Zittauer Mixed 5
17
{SX} VIIIb Der Zittauer (oU) Mixed 5

without support

18
{SX} VIIIb Direkte Westkante Trad
19
{SX} VIIIc Direkte Westwand Trad
20
{SX} VIIIb Direkter Westgrat Trad
22
{SX} Xa Durststrecke Trad
23
{SX} VIIIb DV zum Zittauer Trad
24
{SX} VIIIb DV zur Südwand Trad
25
{SX} VIIa Eckweg Trad
26
{SX} IXb Eiertanz Trad
28
{SX} VIIb EV zum Schandauer Weg Trad
29
{SX} VIIb EV zur Nordwestkante Trad
31
{SX} VIIIc Extravaganter Westgrat Trad
32
{SX} VI Falkenschlucht Trad
33
{SX} VIIc Feine Risse Trad
34
{SX} IXa Finale Trad
35
{SX} VIIIa Fremdenführe Trad
36
{SX} IXa Ganja Trad
37
{SX} VIIIb Geburtstagstour Trad
38
{SX} VIIIa Geländervariante Trad
39
{SX} VIIIa Generationsproblem Trad
40
{SX} III Gerbingvariante Trad
41
{SX} VIIIc Hampelmann Trad
42
{SX} VIIb Häntzschelweg Trad
43

red point

44
{SX} VIIa Hinter der Nadel Trad
45
{SX} VIIb Hinter der Zinne Trad
46
{SX} VIIIa Hinterm Horizont Trad
47
{SX} VIIb Hochzeitsvariante Trad
48
{SX} VIIc Hochzeitsvariante (oU) Trad

without support

49
{SX} VIIIa Hohe Kante Trad
50
{SX} V Hoher Riß Trad
51
{SX} VIIb Hoher Winkel Trad
52
{SX} VIIIa Horror vacui Trad
53
{SX} VIIIa Hungerkante Trad
54
{SX} VIIc Illmerweg Trad
55

red point

56
{SX} Xa Känguruh Trad
57
{SX} III Klimmervariante Trad
59
{SX} VIIIa Kombination Trad
60
{SX} VIIa Kotzwand Trad
61
{SX} VIIa Kreuz der Ewigkeit Trad
62
{SX} VIIa Krippener Weg Trad
63
{SX} VIIIc Krönung Trad
64
{SX} IV Kunzeweg Trad
65
{SX} IV Kurthsche Variante Trad
67
{SX} IXc Liebe und Frieden Trad
68
{SX} Xc Los der Schwere Trad
69
{SX} IXb Mauersegler Trad
73
{SX} VIIIc Nachmittag Trad
74
{SX} Xc Naturfreundeweg Trad
75
{SX} VIIc Neuer Schluchtweg Trad
76
{SX} VIIa Neuer Westweg Trad
77
78
{SX} IXb Nordlicht Trad
79
{SX} IV Nordostkamin Trad
80
{SX} VI Nordostweg Trad
81
{SX} VIIIa Nordpfeiler Trad
82
{SX} VIIb Nordverbindung Trad
83
{SX} VIIb Nordwand Trad
84
{SX} VIIIa Nordwand (oU) Trad

without support

85
{SX} VIIa Nordwestkante Trad
86
{SX} VIIc Offerte Trad
87
{SX} IV Ostweg Trad
88
{SX} VIIIc Pech und Schwefel Trad
89
{SX} IXa Rechte Südwand Trad
90
{SX} VIIc Reginawand Trad
91
{SX} VIIIa Reginawand (oU) Trad

without support

92
{SX} VIIc Renger-Gedächtnisweg Trad
93

without support

94
{SX} VIIc Richtfest Trad
95
{SX} VIIa Rohnspitzlerweg Trad
96
{SX} VIIIc Rosaroter Zärtling Trad
97
{SX} VIIIc Rot-Grüne-Kante Trad
98
{SX} VIIb Schandauer Weg Trad
99
{SX} VIIIc Schefflerweg Trad
100
{SX} VIIIa Schlechtwetterwand Trad
101
{SX} VIIIb Schluchtwand Trad
102
{SX} VIIc Schluchtweg Trad
103
{SX} VIIc Schönwetterwand Trad
104
{SX} III Schräger Kamin Trad
105
{SX} III *** Schusterweg Mixed 100m 6, 3

FA: Oscar Schuster & M. Klimmer, 1892

106
{SX} VIIIa Schwarz-Grüne Wand Trad
107
{SX} VIIb Schwefelbrüderweg Trad
108
{SX} VIIc Schwefelbrüderweg (oU) Trad

without support

109
{SX} VIIIc Sexy-Variante (RP) Trad

red point

110
{SX} VIIIa Sexy-Variante links Trad
111
{SX} VIIc Sommervariante Trad
112
113
{SX} Xb sonnenwendweg Trad
114
{SX} IXb Stern des Südens Trad
115
{SX} VIIb Strubichweg Trad
116
{SX} VIIc Stumpfe Kante Trad
117
{SX} IXa Südostpfeiler Trad
118
{SX} VIIa Südriß Mixed 80m, 3
119
{SX} VIIb Südriß direkt Trad
120
{SX} IXc Südseetraum Trad
121
{SX} VIIIb Südwand Trad
122
{SX} VI Südwestweg Trad
123
{SX} VIIb Südwestweg (oU) Trad

without support

124
{SX} VIIb Tagestour Trad
125
{SX} V Turnervariante Trad
126
{SX} III Turnerweg Trad

Set 1886

127

red point

128
{SX} Xb Vakuum Trad
130
{SX} VIIc Variante Trad
132
{SX} VIIa Variante zur Kotzwand Trad
133
{SX} VIIb Variante zur Wetterwand Trad
134

red point

135
{SX} VIIIc Verbindungswand (RP) Trad

red point

136
137
138
{SX} VIIIc Vollständiger Westgrat Trad
139
{SX} IXa Westgrat Trad
140
{SX} VIIIa Westkante Trad
141
{SX} IXc Westpfeiler Trad
142
{SX} VIIIb Westschlucht Trad
143
{SX} VIIIc Westwand Trad
144
{SX} VIIb Wetterwand Trad
145
{SX} Xa wie im Westen (RP) Trad

red point

146
{SX} VIIb Winkelvariante Trad
147
{SX} VIIIc Wünschequergang Trad
148
{SX} IXc Zentrale Südwand Trad
149
{SX} IXa Zum höchsten Punkt Trad